6. The stitching that sets the sleeve into the armscye is smooth around
the entire seam, with no dips or curves present. |
7. The underarm area is double stitched and trimmed, usually to one-
fourth inch (.64 cm.) to reduce bulk. |
8. In jackets and tailored garments, the upper portion of the
sleeve/armscye seam is left a full five-eighths inch (1.59 cm) wide to
help support the sleeve cap. In soft fabrics and less tailored styles, the
entire seam is usually trimmed. |
9. In an unlined garment, the armscye seam allowance is appropriately
finished. |
10. Shoulder pads and sleeve heads are secured inconspicuously without
pulling the garment in any way. They are the correct size and shape
for the garment. |
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| SLEEVE/BODICE COMBINATIONS |
| |
Kimono/Dolman Sleeve - The front sleeve and the bodice of kimono and
dolman sleeves are cut as one unit and the back sleeve and the back bodice
are cut as one unit. The resulting curved underarm seam will be more
loosely fit on the dolman sleeve and more closely fit on the kimono sleeve. |
| |
Raglan Sleeves - The raglan sleeve has softly curved diagonal lines that
extend from the underarm upward to the neckline, forming the upper part of
the bodice from the shoulder to the neckline. Darts, seams, or gathers are
used to provide the fullness necessary for the sleeve to curve over the full
part of the shoulder, yet taper to fit the much smaller neckline. |
| |
Drop Shoulder - With a drop shoulder design, part of the sleeve cap is
combined with the bodice. |
| |
Deep-cut Arm hole Design - With a deep-cut armhole design, the
armhole section of the bodice is combined with the sleeve. |
| |
1. Plaids, stripes, or directional patterns are matched within the sleeve
itself and where the sleeve joins the garment across the chest and
back. |
2. The method of shaping the shoulder and neckline area is appropriate
to the garment's fabric and design.
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| 13 |
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