Bespoke custom tailoring
   3. Sufficient rows of stitching are used to prevent the elastic from
       folding over on itself.
   4. Any joins in the elastic are lapped, butted or trimmed to reduce bulk.
 
Internal Casings - An internal casing uses a fabric casing applied to the
inside, or sometimes to the outside, of a garment. Elastic or a drawstring is
inserted in the casing in order to control waistline fullness.
 
 
   1.  The stitching lines are parallel.
   2. The casing is the correct width for the elastic (usually 1/8" wider than
       the elastic) or the drawstring (usually 114" wider than the diameter of
       the drawstring).
   3. The raw edges of the casing are finished, if necessary, to prevent
       raveling.
   4. The elastic or drawstring is not twisted in the casing.
   5. Openings in the casing, when present, are neat and durable.
   6. Casings for the elastic are stitched closed after the insertion of the
       elastic.
   7. Any seams in the elastic are lapped, butted, or trimmed, to reduce
       bulk.
   8. The casing fabric is soft, thin, consistent in grain line and compatible
       with the garment's fabric.
 
Waistline Seams    - A waistline seam is created when garment sections are
seamed together at the waistline.
 
   1.  All major construction points on both garment sections are matched
       i.e. seams, darts, pleats and gathers.
   2. Fullness, if present, is evenly distributed unless otherwise designed.
   3. A waist stay is applied if necessary. The stay is cut the proper length
       and attached only at seams and darts. It has a separate closure from
       that of the garment.
   4.  For inset bands at the waist, see the description under NECKLINE
       TREATMENTS, Inset Bands.
 
CLOSURES
Button and Decorative Snap Closures     - Buttons and buttonholes are
one of the most common methods used to join two pieces of a garment. In
women's clothing, buttons are placed on the left side of the opening and the
 

17
 


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