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Ravis Custom Tailors Custom Tailors for 3 Generations

Travelling Tailor update - US and Canada - November!: All Major Cities visited. Get Measured by our Tailors visiting your city. Order Custom made Suits and Custom Tailored Shirts at private consultations with our Master Tailor himself. Make an Appointment with the Tailor now for a measurements session with our Tailors for men and women! Promotion: Ask for our Special Offers. Refer a Friend and Get a free Custom Made Shirt for each referral. Or, call 1 646 257 5886.
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The Ravistailor.com Frequently Asked Questions, How To's and Help

Type in a brief question for Quick Answers

Please read the following for answers to your questions, how to's and any other assistance you might need in ordering from Ravistailor.com

Choose a Topic

  1. The Ordering Process
  2. Style Specific Questions
  3. Accessories, Special Requests , Monogrammes , Optionals , Trimmings
  4. Fabrics and Styles
  5. Wardrobe Specials, Package Offers, Discounts, Promotions
  6. Common Terms, Names, Processes in Custom Tailoring
  7. Fabrics and their Features
  8. Resellers
  9. Pricing, Costs, How Much?
  10. Order Status , Shipping , Turnaround
  11. Catalogues and Swatches
  12. Other Issues
  13. Payments, Credit Cards, Security Issues, Payment Options
  14. Product Features
  15. MyAccount Section
  16. CMT Orders - Your Fabric, Our Creations
  17. Troubleshoot, Technical Issues
  18. Measurements, Sizes, How to? When ? What ?
  19. Our Policies, Return Policy, Cancellation Policy


1) The Ordering Process

  1. How do I see/view/send an EMAIL ORDER or ORDER BY EMAIL?
  2. What are the prices for suits, shirts, pants?
  3. How and where do I send samples to copy?
  4. How do I send photos and digital images?
  5. How do I make changes to an order I have already placed?
  6. What is the Buy-a-Gift feature?
  7. What is the ´Allow us to make a Suggestion´ Feature?
  8. What are off-site purchases?
  9. What are wardrobe specials and how do I order one?
  10. How do I add custom choices such as monograms, buttons, lining, etc., to pieces selected in the wardrobe specials?
  11. Can I make changes to styles that are displayed in the various collections?
  12. How do I place an order?
  13. I am unable to submit an order Online; the site is not taking my order! What should I do?
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2) Style Specific Questions

  1. What is the difference between inverse pleats and reverse pleats and how do they differ from standard pleats on pants?
  2. What are Morning Pants?
  3. What is a vent?
  4. Do you make detachable collar dress shirts?
  5. What is a Peak Lapel?
  6. What is a Notch Lapel?
  7. What is a button down collar?
  8. What is the difference between a single breasted and a double breasted jacket?
  9. What is a Sulptured Collar?
  10. What is a split back on jackets?
  11. What are inverted box pleats?
  12. What is the difference between a Notch Lapel and a Peak Lapel?
  13. What are Ticket Pockets?
  14. What is a hidden button-down collar?
  15. What style is best for me?
  16. What is button stance?
  17. What is a gorge?
  18. What is a placket covered front?
  19. What is a Bouttonnaire?
  20. What is a Mandarin Collar, a Thai Collar, and an Oiental Collar?
  21. Where does custom tailoring fit with traditional vs. modern styles?
  22. Can I order deviations from styles that I like but want slightly different?
  23. What are the construction specifications for your shirts?
  24. What are hand stitched lapels and pockets?
  25. What is the difference between English or British cut and Italian cut men´s suits?
  26. What is an Ainsley Collar?
  27. Can designer styles be replicated?
  28. What is the difference between a Suit Jacket, a Blazer and a Sports Jacket ?
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3) Accessories, Special Requests , Monogrammes , Optionals , Trimmings

  1. What is the ready-to-wear category?
  2. What are working buttons/functioning buttons?
  3. What are Rope Shoulders? Can you do Rope Shoulders on suits?
  4. Can I order shirts with contrast collars and cuffs? Can you make shirts with white collars and white cuffs?
  5. Do you make Non-Shatnez and Halacha compliant clothing?
  6. What material do you use for linings?
  7. What are hand stitched lapels and pockets?
  8. What special requests for suits or shirts can I add to my order?
  9. I want corporate logo, personal logo on the garments I Order.
  10. Do you make removable collar stays on shirts?
  11. Can I order detachable collars on my shirts?
  12. How do I choose neckties or cuff links?
  13. I want half lined or fully lined pants and jackets.
  14. I want monograms, working sleeve buttons, and hand stitched/pick stitched lapels. Is this possible?
  15. What is a hand basted full canvas front?
  16. What monograms styles are available? How do I order them?
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4) Fabrics and Styles

  1. I want to order a poplin, cotton, wool, silk suit/shirt?
  2. I would like to order custom denim jackets/coats/slacks/jeans.
  3. I am looking for a particular color.
  4. What is linen? Is it a good choice for custom garments?
  5. What is fabric popularity and how is it judged?
  6. I have a particular fabric in mind, how do I search for it?
  7. What are the most popular fabrics? What are votes on fabrics?
  8. I am looking for wrinkle resistant fabrics that are durable for everyday wear.
  9. Which fabric mills do you obtain your fabrics from? Where do most of your fabrics come from?
  10. What is PVC ? What is Pleather ?
  11. I am looking for fabric care information
  12. I want to know more about various silk types
  13. What fabrics do you have in the Closeouts Category? What are Exclusive Closeouts? Deluxe Closeouts?
  14. What material and colour has been used in the Style image I like ? I want to order the same.
  15. How can I order a garment from one collection in a fabric from another collection?
  16. I am a woman, but I like men´s style shirts and suits. How do I order them ?
  17. How can I order custom-made denim jeans?.
  18. I would like to order a suit/shirt in white/cream/blue/yellow/pink/orange or in a color not shown on your site. What Fabric is best for such a garment?
  19. I would like to buy fabric only. Do you sell by the yard ? What is the cost per yard?
  20. I am looking for a particular fabric. Can you source a fabric I am looking for?
  21. Where and how do I view the various fabrics?
  22. Does RavisTailor make custom clothes with fabric I provide?
  23. Does RavisTailor customize to any style?
  24. Can you make a custom piece of clothing from an image I send to you?
  25. Can I order swatches?
  26. I would like to know more about Textiles.
  27. Where can I find more information about fashion and clothing?
  28. What is the difference between CLASSIC COLLECTIONS, EXCLUSIVE COLLECTIONS, DELUXE COLLECTIONS and HERITAGE GOLD COLLECTIONS?
  29. How can I order a CATALOGUE of your products?
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5) Wardrobe Specials, Package Offers, Discounts, Promotions

  1. What discount is available on bulk and wholesale orders?
  2. What special offers and promotions are available?
  3. I want to change fabrics available in a Wardrobe Special I like.
  4. I want to order more than three suits or more than ten shirts. Can you offer a discount?
  5. Do I get a discount when ordering more than a few pieces at regular prices?
  6. I am a webmaster, I have my own site(s). What interesting offers are available for me?
  7. How do I order a gift certificate ? How do I claim stored value in a certificate ?
  8. How and can I claim my complimentary gift or other giveaways ?
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6) Common Terms, Names, Processes in Custom Tailoring

  1. What is SINGLE-NEEDLE STITCHING? Can you do Single Needle Stitching on shirts?
  2. What is a PLACKET?
  3. What is ply?
  4. What is yarn size?
  5. What materials and related items used in suit making?
  6. What is Glen Plaid?
  7. What is thread count?
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7) Fabrics and their Features

  1. What is Micro Suede?
  2. What is two-fold or two-ply cloth?
  3. What is Dormieul?
  4. What are Super 100s, 110s, 120s, 130s, 150s, and 180s?
  5. What is the Designer Brand Collections?
  6. What is Seersucker?
  7. What is ply?
  8. What is yarn size?
  9. What is thread count?
  10. What is a Burn Test? How do I test a fabric?
  11. What is manufactured – man made fabrics and manufactured fiber types?
  12. What is hemp fiber and jute?
  13. What are weaves and how are they different from fabrics?
  14. What is cotton? What are its uses?
  15. What is wool? What are the different kinds of wool and their advantages?
  16. What kind of cloth is linen and what material is it composed of?
  17. What is Glen Plaid?
  18. What is Vicuna Wool?
  19. What are natural fibers made from? What is a natural fiber?
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8) Resellers

  1. I have a large group of people that I would like to order for. Can I get a discount?
  2. What are the Reseller and Franchise Opportunities offered by RavisTailor?
  3. Who are the Business Associates of Ravis Custom Tailors?
  4. What criteria do I need to access your promotion items for webmasters?
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9) Pricing, Costs, How Much?

  1. What is the price of suits, shirts, pants, coats and other custom made-to-measure items?
  2. I want to order for my wedding party. Can I get a Discount?
  3. What discounts are available for bulk orders and wholesale orders?
  4. What discounts and special prices are available at RavisTailor?
  5. I have a large group of people that I would like to order for. Can I get a discount?
  6. Is there a Minimum Order Requirement?
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10) Order Status , Shipping , Turnaround

  1. What is the difference between priority processing and rush processing?
  2. How do I change my shipping address?
  3. How long after an order is shipped do I receive it? Can I choose who to ship with?
  4. What is the estimated dispatch date?
  5. Are there any countries where you don´t ship orders to?
  6. How do I update my addresses or details prior to my next order or while my current order is being completed?
  7. What are necessary conditions, customs, duties or taxes I must be aware of ?
  8. Where do I send samples for replication or reproduction? Where do I send cloth for CMT work?
  9. Do you ship to the UK, the USA and Australia? What countries do you ship to ? How long does it take to arrive ?
  10. I submitted my order sometime ago, why is it still pending?
  11. How do I track my order online?
  12. What are the shipping and handling Charges?
  13. What is the difference between priority processing and rush processing?
  14. What is the turnaround time at RavisTailors? How about ready-to-wear items?
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11) Catalogues and Swatches

  1. I want to order a catalogue of custom clothing.
  2. How can I order fabric samples/swatches before submitting an order?
  3. How do I order after getting my swatches/Digital Catalogue?
  4. What if I have lost a gift certificate, swatch payment redemption coupon etc?
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12) Other Issues

  1. What is laundering and starching?
  2. What is the best method for cleaning my suit?
  3. Where is www.ravistailor.com located?
  4. What kind of promotions do you offer? How do I select items from these promotions?
  5. Do you visit USA, UK, Ireland, Australia, New Zealand or Europe on annual mail order trips? Do you visit my part of the world to take orders or measurements?
  6. Where are you located ? What is your physical address? Can I have directions to your location?
  7. What is RavisTailor´s stand on human rights and conservation?
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13) Payments, Credit Cards, Security Issues, Payment Options

  1. How do I checkout? How do I pay for an order?
  2. How secure are payments made to www.ravistailor.com?
  3. How do I pay for my custom clothing?
  4. Do you offer credit terms or an installments payment option? Can I make Partial Payments?
  5. What is the cvv/cvc number? What is the 4 digit Amex security number? What is Verified By Visa ?
  6. Why has payment been processed in the Thai Baht and not in USD?
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14) Product Features

  1. How does a fully-constructed, tailored jacket differ from semi-constructed or unconstructed jackets?
  2. What is a semi-constructed jacket?
  3. What is an unconstructed jacket? What is the difference between a fully constructed and an unconstructed jacket?
  4. What is the difference between ready-to-wear/off-the-peg, made-to-measure, and full Bespoke Suits?
  5. How are your jackets, pants, and shirts made? What type of construction is done on your jackets, shirts, pants? What are your manufacturing specifications?
  6. What sort of religious criteria can be added to custom tailored clothing?
  7. Are your jackets hand-basted or fused? Can you do hand-basted canvas fronts? Are shirt collars fused? What about the seams?
  8. What are RavisTailor.com production standards?
  9. How do I know if RavisTailor is for me?
  10. What about big and tall sizes?
  11. Can I order for others such as family?
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15) MyAccount Section

  1. I am not able to access my order in the ´MyAccounts´ link of your website.
  2. Why does the system ask for a password in ´MyAccounts´? I have forgotten the password. I can´t log into my account.
  3. What is the ´MyAccounts´ feature?
  4. How do I track the status of my order online?
  5. How do I set up an account ?
  6. What does the status, ´QC´ mean?
  7. What is ´Order Pending´ in my account?
  8. What is ´Order Processing´ in my account?
  9. What is ´Order Sourcing´ in my account?
  10. What is ´Order Executing´ in my account?
  11. What does ´Awaiting Info´ in my account mean?
  12. What does ´Order Completing´ mean?
  13. What does ´Order Shipped´ in my account indicate?
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16) CMT Orders - Your Fabric, Our Creations

  1. What are CMT orders? How much do they cost?
  2. Can I send you the cloth for my custom garments ?
  3. How do I determine how much fabric to send you for a specific type of clothing I want made; suit, pants, shirt, vest, etc.?
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17) Troubleshoot, Technical Issues

  1. What are alpha characters?
  2. How can I remove an item from my shopping cart? How do I edit items in my shopping cart? How do I change items in my order?
  3. I dont see my order in MyAccounts. Where did it go? Do you still have it?
  4. When I submit sizes, it shows an - Out Of Range - Error.
  5. It keeps asking for the password to MyAccounts? I do not have/have forgotten the password. What should I do?
  6. I am unable to log into MyAccounts. What should I do?
  7. I updated my measurements online. Why are the changes not showing?
  8. I can´t view the video tutorials in the measurements forms. I am having trouble submitting sizes. The form is not going through. Help.
  9. I am unable to submit an online order. What should I do?
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18) Measurements, Sizes, How to? When ? What ?

  1. What does NOA mean?
  2. Can I send in sizes that I want copied from a garment that fits me well?
  3. When I submit sizes, it shows an ´out of range´ error. What does that mean?
  4. I am afraid to take sizes. Can I send measurements off a garment I am happy with?
  5. What is difference between "Slim or Snug Fit", "Athletic Cut" and "Full Fit"?
  6. How do I send digital images to use with my order?
  7. How do I best take sizes, with clothes on or without any clothes on? Should I submit sizes in centimeters or Inches ?
  8. I have a shirt I want sizes taken from. How is this accomplished?
  9. I have existing garments that I want to send to you for replicating sizes off of. How do I do this?
  10. When, how, and where do I submit my measurements?
  11. Can you do Large loose shirts ? Can you to Tight or fitted Shirts ? Loose baggy slacks? Snug fit pants ? Boxy Jackets?
  12. Can you do big and tall size custom clothing?
  13. Can you do wheelchair fit ? I have physical limitations, can you accomodate them in my custom clothing?
  14. What if I am an odd size with parts of my physique larger or smaller than other parts of my physique? Such as, what if my neck is a lot larger than the rest of my proportions or what if my sleeves are extra short compared to the rest of me?
  15. Can I update the measurements after the order has been delivered?
  16. I am an existing client but do not see my measurements profile in my account. Do you have all my measurements? If so, why is it not shown?
  17. How can I be sure of a perfect fit?
  18. Can you use off the rack sizes? Can I submit Ready to Wear sizes for my custom clothing?
  19. What are the minimal size requirements for Shirts ? Jackets ? Pants ? Vests ?
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19) Our Policies, Return Policy, Cancellation Policy

  1. I have lost my Gift Certificate, Swatch Payment Refund Coupon, Discount Coupon, Promotional Coupon!
  2. What is the return policy at RavisTailor.com?
  3. What is the policy regarding gift certificates and discount coupon redemption?
  4. Can I cancel an existing order?
  5. Is there any guarantee of the fabric/material, construction quality and fit of the Custom Garment?
  6. If a charge back or credit has been issued to my credit card, why do I not see it in my Card Statement?
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Topic 1: The Ordering Process

1a) How do I see/view/send an EMAIL ORDER or ORDER BY EMAIL?
To review an order you have sent to us by email, simply log into MyAccounts after 24 hours of submitting the order and go to the current orders page. There, you can view the order, check the status, determine the estimated dispatch date, and see other relevant information.
To email us an order, email the following information:
- Items you would like to order
- Style number for of each item
- Fabric number for each item
- Color for each item. A perfect check-list for quick and easy manual order entry is:
1 suit, fabric 101, color black, style 1
or 1 suit, fabric 102, color blue, style 3,
and so on.
Special feature requests such as hand-stitched lapels and pockets on jackets, working sleeve buttons on jackets, etc., need to be specified.

Your measurements can be submitted by logging into MyAccounts and clicking the Measurements Portfolio section. When we receive the order information, we will input the order and send you an email confirmation along with our payment request. The order then enters the production process and periodic updates will be emailed to you.

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1b) What are the prices for suits, shirts, pants?
Prices depend on the custom collection category you intend to order from. Click here to view a complete price list. The workmanship or construction of the custom clothing is the same in all the collections. Prices include shipping to any part of the globe via International Couriers.

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1c) How and where do I send samples to copy?
To send samples to us, follow these instructions. Pack the samples in as small a package as possible and include your name, address, telephone number and Customer ID.

The customer ID is the number you find in the subject field of any email received from us. Send it by registered/certified airmail. Please do not use a courier for this as inbound courier service into Thailand is not always dependable. Place a low value on the package, under USD 5 to USD 15 for example. Declare the item as old cloth of no commercial value for sampling purposes only. Include a note in the package that outlines the details of your order in as much detail as possible and include any special item requests. Special request items are provided at extra cost and the associated charges will be added to your order totals once we know what options you request.

Our Mailing address is:
Ravis Custom Tailors
Klongtan P O Box 21
Klongtan Post Office
Bangkok 10116
Thailand
Tel: +66 81 987 8717
Email us to confirm that your sample has has been sent so we can keep an eye out for it. (Back)

1d) How do I send photos and digital images?
You can send photos and digital images through email. Send us a JPEG format that ends in the extension .jpg and one that is no larger than 50 kb in size. If sending multiple images, please ensure that the images are zipped before transmission. Links to online images can also be used to help us understand exactly what style you are interested in.

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1e) How do I make changes to an order I have already placed?
Log into the MyAccounts link. Here you will see all your current orders. Use the link called - Make Changes to This Order - to submit any changes you wish to have us incorporate. Depending on the current status of the order, it maybe too late to incorporate the requested changes. Depending on the kind of changes required, the order totals may be revised upwards and additional funds requested. Any left over balance on the payment received is non-refundable.

Once the changes have been submitted and our customer service department has reviewed them, you will receive a confirmation via email indicating whether the changes can be made. The order totals will be revised as soon as the changes have been accepted.

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1f) What is the Buy-a-Gift feature?
This feature allows you to place gift orders and purchase certificates that can be redeemed for custom clothing. You can specify custom garments or certain styles and let the recipient submit his/her measurements. Or, you can select a particular item and let the recipient choose the style, fabric and color. If selecting a fixed value gift, a link to our home page will be emailed to the recipient along with any message you want delivered. You would select the option of sending the home page link on the recipient´s information submission page. If a particular item is being given, the recipient would be directed to the appropriate section in the Collection Category that describes the item you specify. After choosing the items, select the "buy a gift" feature from the menu on your left. You will be taken to the page where the recipients information needs to be submitted and a link to the page you came from will be emailed to the recipient. You need to select the option to email a link from the page you came from on this form.

If you would like to have the gift delivered to you so you can personally give it to the recipient, DO NOT use the "buy a gift" feature. Simply add the recipients measurements into the MY ACCOUNT feature. After the measurements have been added to your account and this profile given a name, you can then order the custom made-to-measure gift to be delivered directly to you by simply placing the item in your shopping cart. This feature also enables you to add profiles of friends or family members into your account so that combined orders can be placed at the same time.

The following policies apply to this process:
A. If a certificate or swatch payment redemption coupon if lost, it is irrecoverable. It is the receivers responsibility
to retain and save the coupon or certificate for subsequent use at our site.
B. Certificate or redemption coupons cannot be exchanged for cash.
C. A certificate or redemption coupon cannot be utilized or redeemed with an order already placed.
Coupons or certificates only be redeemed for subsequent orders.

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1g) What is the ´Allow us to make a Suggestion´ Feature?
This special feature allows you to ask for suggestions from Ravi the e-Tailor on helping you determine what custom made item best meets your wishes and needs. Our Master Tailors will ask a few basic questions on the included form, and you will receive answers and feedback within 24 hours. This is a great opportunity to get custom advice based on specific information you provide. Our tailors can make suggestions relative to fabric, style, color, pattern, and accessory suggestions for expanding your wardrobe.

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1h) What are off-site purchases?
These are purchases made using promotions, emailed offers, and products bought on our auctions. In essence, these are all purchases not made directly from our website.

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1i) What are wardrobe specials and how do I order one?
Wardrobe specials are designed to help you create complete or partial wardrobe replacements by offering volume discounts. Visit the WARDROBE SPECIALS page and select a ´Clothing Package´ that appeals to you. Click on one of the ´Specials´ and on the subsequent page, you will be asked to add remaining details into the available fields in completing your order.
To specify information regarding styles, fabrics and colors for a particular piece in a ´Special´, click on the button provided to view available selections for that item.
Click on items you want to add to the field.

For example, if you have selected a suit and three shirts, click on the package and you will arrive at a page that displays fabric, style and color information for the suit and the shirts. Click on the appropriate button to make your style choice. The window will close and the style number will be added to the appropriate field. The same system allows you to select colors and fabrics and special detail requests. Clicking on ´Submit´ will add the items to your shopping cart. Accessories such as custom monogramming, contrast lining, buttons, hand stitched lapels, actuating sleeve buttons, etc., are selected separately by clicking on the shopping cart icon on the top right and choosing the accessories link next to each item in the package.

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1j) How do I add custom choices such as monograms, buttons, lining, etc., to pieces selected in the wardrobe specials?
All accessories are selected separately by clicking the shopping cart icon on the top right of the page and choosing the accessories link next to each item in the package.

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1k) Can I make changes to styles that are displayed in the various collections?
Yes. Click the special requests page that comes up for the style that comes closest to what you have selected.

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1l) How do I place an order?
Ordering at www.RavisTailor.com is a simple process. We provide extensive support resources to assist you when ordering custom made clothing. The ordering sequence is choose the style, fabric, and color of your choice. Then use the special instructions icon to enter special request for further customization. While the process is straight forward there are multiple ways to add customization in the items you choose:
- Visit one of our collection catalogues or if you already know the style you like, use our search feature linked from the left menu of our home page to find styles you want to focus on.
- After selecting from one of the catalogues, choose the garment type or outfit you desire.
- Choose from the different styles we custom tailor for that particular outfit.
- View the different fabrics available for that style and the colors the fabric comes in.
- Choose a color from our palette and the fabric selected will appear in the large box above the style image.
- Confirm the item and the order by adding it to the shopping cart.
- Confirm if the chosen piece is for yourself or for a different person/profile you have added to your account.
- The platform allows you to place orders for friends or family members at the same time you order for yourself.
- To order for someone else, add their measurement profile using ´MyAccounts´ feature.
- If this is your first order and it is for yourself, we will ask you for your measurements later in the ordering process.
- After confirming the individual you are ordering for, you will be directed to the special request and specific instructions page.
- Here, specific details regarding the chosen custom garment will be provided.You can customize sleeve cuffs, collars, pleats, monograms, etc.
- Select any accessories you want to enhance your custom piece.
- Depending on your custom garment selection, we may offer suggestions for complementing pieces for further orders should it be of interest.
- After completing your selections, proceed to the check out page.Your order totals will be visible at all times at the top right hand side of every page next to the shopping cart.
- Select priority processing if needed.
- Provide billing and shipping addresses information for efficient delivery by international couriers.
- After submitting payment information, you will be prompted to submit your measurements if we do not already have them.
- Your fully customized, made to measure garment(s) will be completed in a week to ten working days and delivered right to your doorstep.

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1m) I am unable to submit an order Online; the site is not taking my order! What should I do?
There are several things that could be holding up acceptance of your order. It may be that ´cookies´ are disabled on your computer or you may be part of a local network that prevents pages from showing on your computer. It is possible that a script is corrupted, preventing you from completing the transaction. Try emailing us the following order information emailed to us along with credit card information to process payment so we can manually input your order. We will then confirm the order onto your online profile, visible in the ´MyAccounts´ section of our website.
If you are unable to submit your measurements, email us a request for Measurements Forms so you can fill them out fax or email them back to us.

For manual order placement, email us the following details
- Items you wish to order
- Style number for each item
- Fabric number for each item
- Color for each item
- Any special requests for any of the items ordered
- Measurements can be submitted by logging into MyAccounts and using the links on the left menu. Or, you can fax us the measurement form which can be printed out and filled in. Our fax number is (66) 2 650 0956 where you would need to dial the international access code (it is 011 in the USA) and then the rest of the number. Include your name, email address, and customer ID.

Email us the following credit card information so that we can process payment.
- Credit card number
- Name on the card
- Expiration date
- Shipping address
- Billing address
- CVV number(the three digit number in reverse italics on the back of the card).
This information will allow us to manually enter your order and process it accordingly.

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Topic 2: Style Specific Questions

2a) What is the difference between inverse pleats and reverse pleats and how do they differ from standard pleats on pants?
Inverse pleats are pleats that face inwards towards the zipper. These are also called inward facing pleats or traditional inverse pleats. Reverse pleats face outward towards the pockets and are known as standard pleats. Today, almost all pants are made with reverse pleats that face the pockets.

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2b) What are Morning Pants?
Morning Dress Pants are a specific category of men´s formal dress. They are worn with a Top Hat and Tails and are most frequently worn by male members of a wedding party. In common with Court Dress, Mess Dress and White Tie Dress, Morning Dress is usually reserved for particularly prestigious or very formal occasions. Despite the name, Morning Pants are usually worn any time before 5pm. It is also becoming increasingly common to continue wearing them into the evening. Morning Pants should not have turn-ups (cuffs), and should have one pleat to each leg. Braces should be worn to prevent the waistband from appearing beneath the waistcoat. Typically Morning Pants are charcoal grey with stripes and are worn with Dove Tail Morning Coats and White Waistcoats. We recommend the highest quality Exclusive and Deluxe Selections for Morning Pants. These fabric types are imported from Italy, France and the U.K., and are all pure wool and cashmere, unless otherwise specified.

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2c) What is a vent?
Vents are openings on the back of jackets. Sometimes referred to as slits, traditional style vents usually have one center vent at the back of the jacket. Very traditional British jacket styles jackets have two side vents at the back of the jacket. More modern ´Italian cut´ slim styles have no vents at the back of the jacket, which contributes to a snug hips appearance.

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2d) Do you make detachable collar dress shirts?
We can custom make detachable collar shirts per your specifications. To order these, please visit one of our fabric collections, select the shirt category the style, and the color. On subsequent special request pages, specify that you want detachable collars. This will then be incorporated into the order at no extra charge.

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2e) What is a Peak Lapel?
With a Peak lapel , the lapel rises up and beyond the collar in creating a slight peak. The separation between the collar and the lapel is less than 1 degree as the lapel rises upwards and runs parallel to the outer rim of the collar. This positions the tip pointing towards the shoulders.

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2f) What is a Notch Lapel?
On a coat, a notch is a cut between the collar and the lapel. A Notch lapel is a 45 to 90 degree angle of separation between the collar and the lapel at the point where they join. The collar is the piece that goes around the neck and the lapel is the piece that sits on the front of the chest. In a Notch lapel, there is a wide space separating the outer most tip of the collar from the outer most tip of the lapel.

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2g) What is a button down collar?
The button-down collar has small buttons at the tips of the points. It is a characteristic collar style of the "preppy" look first popularized in the 1960s. Few people currently wearing button-down collars are aware of its historical origins. The button-down collar is an American adaptation of shirts worn by English polo players. It was introduced by John Brooks in 1900 after he observed English polo players wearing them to prevent collar flapping during a match. Polo players at first wore formal cotton dress shirts with the collars buttoned down to prevent flapping from becoming a distraction during matches. Today, the button-down collar is a staple of American men´s wear but is much less common in Great Britain.

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2h) What is the difference between a single breasted and a double breasted jacket?
Single-breasted refers to a jacket or similar garment having one row of buttons and a narrow overlap of fabric in the front. Double-breasted refers to a very wide overlap in the front and, usually, two parallel rows of buttons or snaps. In most cases one column of buttons is simply decorative. Only those at the outer edge of the overlap actually fasten the two layers together. The others, placed on the outside of the outer layer, either serve no purpose or allow the overlap to be reversible. The wide overlap puts extra fabric layers where the opening occurs to retain body heat. Pea coats and some trench coats are traditionally double-breasted.

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2i) What is a Sulptured Collar?
A Sculptured Collar, also called the Pat Riley Collar or a dove-tail collar, is found on some trendy shirt styles. It is a spread collar where the front edges of the collar curve away from each other in an arc. This gives the appearance of two semi-curved arcs in the front on the sides of the tie space. Review the Style search page and type in the words ´sculptured collar´ in the keywords field to view multiple shirt styles with this collar.

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2j) What is a split back on jackets?
A split back is created when the seam at the center of the back is fitted with a pleat exactly on the seam. This pleat opens and closes with the movement of the arms forwards and backwards. This feature, from the 50s and 60s, gives the jacket a safari look. The pleat runs from the center of the back a few inches below the neck to approximately the back of the waist. There is a small additional cost for this feature. Use our Style Search function and type in the words ´split back´ in the keywords search field criteria to bring up styles with this feature.

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2k) What are inverted box pleats?
Inverted box pleats are when two pleats next to each other are positioned at the top to create a point that looks like an arrowhead. The pleats meet on the top and move away from each other at an angle. Use our Style Search function and type in the words´ inverted box pleat´ in the keywords search field criteria to bring up styles with this feature.

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2l) What is the difference between a Notch Lapel and a Peak Lapel?
A Notch lapel is when there is a 45 to 90 degree angle of separation between the collar and the lapel at the point where they join. The collar is the piece that goes around the neck and the lapel is the piece that sits on the front of the chest. In a Notch lapel, there is a wide space separating the outer most tip of the collar from the outer most tip of the lapel. In a Peak lapel, the lapel rises up and beyond the collar tip in creating a peak. Separation between the collar and the lapel in this case is less than 1 degree due to the fact that the lapel rises upwards and runs parallel to the outer rim of the collar. This makes the tip point toward the shoulders.

To view these features, type in the words, Notch Lapel or Peak Lapel, in the keyword field of our Style Search page and styles bearing these features will be displayed.

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2m) What are Ticket Pockets?
Ticket Pockets are Vintage Style Pockets found mostly on jackets, coats and suits. They originate from the days of train travel when gentleman often traveled by train and found this extra pocket useful for holding train tickets, cash, and coins. Ticket pockets are typically found on the outside of a jacket as slits with or without flaps, above the lower hip jacket pockets. On pants they are found as invisible/barely visible slits just under the waistband in the front a few inches from the pants opening.To review styles with ticket pockets, type in the words ´Ticket Pocket´ in the keywords field of our Style Search page.

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2n) What is a hidden button-down collar?
A collar with hidden buttons that fasten the points or tips to a shirt. This is considered one of the casual collars designed to appear more formal so that it can be worn with a tie. These are softer than standard collars.

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2o) What style is best for me?
We recommend that you review our articles for information and knowledge on what works best for different physiques in different settings and for different occasions. Our Articles page will also update you on current fashion trends in the clothing world. Should you still need more advice on the best styles, fabrics, and colors Contact us.

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2p) What is button stance?
On jackets, blazers and coats the position where the first button starts on the chest is called a button stance. This is usually defined as a standard, low, or high button stance. A low button stance essentially means a longer gorge and a high button stance means a higher gorge.

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2q) What is a gorge?
The gorge is the point where the lapels meet in the front to create the V between which the necktie is visible against the background of the shirt. The coat´s design determines its positioning. While there is some flexibility in its placement on the upper chest, moving it outside this area to where it becomes a focal point courts instant obsolescence.
There are three kind of gorges on a suit coat:
1. Low/Long Gorge: is when the lapels are cut very low towards the stomach so that more of the shirt and tie are visible.
2. Mid Gorge: is when the lapels are slightly lengthened in proportion to the overall length of the jacket but not so much as to make it a visibly low gorge.
3. High Gorge: When the lapels is cut very high towards the neck so as to reduce the amount of tie visible between the two lines of the jacket on the chest.
The length of the gorge depends on several factors; styles used, the height of the wearer, and the number of buttons on the jacket.

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2r) What is a placket covered front?
Placket covered fronts are usually found on certain shirt styles, though sometimes it can be a feature in trendy, stylishly-long jackets. A placket covered front is when the front buttons are covered by a placket making them invisible. This is a flap that covers the button and runs from the collar band down to the edge of the jacket or shirt. Should this feature be required, please specify it in the special requests section of the order placement process.

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2s) What is a Bouttonnaire?
A Bouttonnaire is a button hole, also called a carnation hole, that goes on the lapel of suits and jackets. On men´s suits and jackets and on some women´s suits, this is a default feature. Should a bouttonnaire or a lapel button hole be required in styles where this is not a default, please specify it using the special requests section of the order placement process We can also do a stalk holder behind the lapel that will keep carnations in place. There is no extra charge for this feature. Use our Style Search function and type in the words ´Bouttonnaire´ in the keywords field of the search criteria to bring up styles with this feature.

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2t) What is a Mandarin Collar, a Thai Collar, and an Oiental Collar?
These are styling features found mostly in shirts and sometimes in jackets. Mandarin Collars and Oriental Collars are sometimes referred to as Band Collars. A Mandarin collar is a band around the collar that meets up in the front. In this style, it clips closed together in the front above the buttons. An Oriental Collar is similar to the Mandarin collar where the two ends of the collar panel join in the front. A Thai Collar is of similar style but does not join in the front, creating a space between the two ends of the band above the first button in front.

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2u) Where does custom tailoring fit with traditional vs. modern styles?
There is a wide discrepancy between what an off-the-rack clothing supplier and a custom tailor present to their clients in terms of service and the finished product.
An off the rack producer makes clothes that will be accepted and popular with select consumer groups and mass produces them for broad distribution.
A Custom Tailor like Ravis Tailors, determines what an individual client wants and produces garments that meet those specifications. Our job is to produce well designed, well fitting, custom made garments that are made to measure. Clients buy the styles they prefer from sources they are most comfortable with and trust. Custom tailors work with clients to discover their preferences for style, fabric, color, and finishing detail. They show images, discuss options, answer questions, and most importantly listen to client feedback. They advise on how to meet clients needs efficiently and cost effectively. Since there is a wide range of client tastes, we offer both traditional and more modern styles and work to create each individual piece from scratch.

The images we show on our website are general indications or outlines of what is available and what is currently popular.
Customization begins with a selection of a basic suit, shirt, or other garment. Today, more so than ever, individual preference and a wide selection range, guide the buying process. Consumers are less likely today to buy what others are wearing or what is advertised. Current styles may influence the thought process but in the end consumers want to wear what they like, fits them best and makes them feel good about themselves.

Traditional styles are still very popular. The roots of many Custom Tailors originate from working with traditional styles and cuts of clothing. Our focus and commitment lie in ensuring that the clothing fits well, is comfortable, and whenever possible is flattering. While we maintain our mastery of traditional styles, we easily and creatively produce custom pieces that reflect modern styles, fabrics, colors, and in some cases strong differentiation.

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2v) Can I order deviations from styles that I like but want slightly different?
We can certainly incorporate deviations to selected styles. Frequently, these involve changes to the collar, the cuffs, the number of buttons, pleats, etc. To order such deviations, visit the collection of your choice and select the category you wish to order from. Select the style that comes closest to your preference, select the fabric and the color, and use the subsequent special request sections to indicate a change or customization request. These changes, updates and deviations are accommodated at no extra charge, unless otherwise specified.

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2w) What are the construction specifications for your shirts?
We stock high-end pure cottons, broadcloth, pinpoints, end-on-ends, twill and cheesecloth, in-blend cottons, cotton polys, oxfords, chambray, silks and more. Most fabrics are 2 ply and above.
The fabrics are mostly sourced from Thailand, UK, France and Italy. Luxury shirt fabrics are found within the DELUXE COLLECTIONS and HERITAGE GOLD collections.
The mills we use may not be as well known, but the fabric quality is excellent. Our thread counts are all 2 ply and above.
We use smooth cotton, extra strong, non-shrink poly threads and high-tensile strength silk woven threads in the construction of our shirts.

Our quality of workmanship is comparable to the best there is. Stitch counts are 120 and above and all seams are double stitched. We incorporate elasticated collar buttons and extra generous shoulder seams. Our collars are double layered, top fused and include removable or permanent collar stays, depending on the style of collar.
The shirt cuffs are double layered and top fused. Barrel cuffs are convertible with an expandable button stance for ease of wearing a watch or bracelet.
At the back of the shirt, we incorporate single side-back pleats, double side-back pleats, box pleats, inverted box pleats and a plain no pleat yoke. Box pleats are the normal standard of production.
Our seams are double stitched packed seams so no interlock stitches are visible when rolling up the sleeves.
We use imitation Mother of Pearl Buttons as standard; real Mother of Pearl Buttons can be requested. Colored shirts have either imitation horn buttons or colored buttons that match. Button holes are hand sewn with interlocked machine stitches.

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2x) What are hand stitched lapels and pockets?
Hand stitched lapels and pockets are features that were first introduced when all suits were only hand made. At that time the two shells, outer and inner shells, were constructed separately and sewn together. The jacket edges were sewn in by hand to retain integrity and smooth out the edges. Hand sewing created small ripple effects on the jacket lapels and pockets which custom tailors today replicate as a style option. In high-end suits, this is done by machine stitching tiny ´dog tooth´ stitches on the lapels. We offer this as an optional feature in our suits and utilize the original hand sewn method. Click on ´hand stitched lapels and pockets´ to see the image of this effect on the finished product.

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2y) What is the difference between English or British cut and Italian cut men´s suits?
An English or British Traditional Cut features proportions closer to the body. These suits have slightly narrower shoulders, a closer fit at the chest and an hourglass shape at the waist. The skirt (hip) section of the jacket flares out ever so slightly to accentuate the waist.
An Italian Cut men´s suit features an overall proportion more like an inverted V, where the shoulders are accentuated, the waist is tapered, and the hips are snug and close to the body.
The British Traditional Cut is ideal for a standard proportioned body structure that is not too slim nor too full. An Italian Cut is more ideal for an athletic figure. Think Sean Connery (perfect figure for the British cut) and think Pierce Brosnan (great physique to carry an Italian tailored suit).

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2z) What is an Ainsley Collar?
An Ainsley Collar is a standard necktie collar that has a 45 degree to 60 degree angle at the tie space (place closest to skin at the neck, above the neck button). This is the most common type of shirt collar worn with neck ties. You can learn more about fabrics by visiting our Glossary pages or you can do quick Style searches using one or more criteria and keywords to help pick specific styles that you have in mind.

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2aa) Can designer styles be replicated?
All our pieces are individually made-to-measure and not adjustments to off-the-rack garments. We can replicate off-the-rack designer styles to meet individual preferences.
The special request section of the order placement process is used to indicate the style you want replicated by including a link to an image or referring to an image that shows it. Send Us as an attachment. If you send an image attachment, do so in JPEG format that ends in the extension .jpg and is no larger than 50 kb in size. If there are multiple images, please send them as a zip file.
Links to online images can also be used.

When placing the order, select one of the collections on our website and select the item category you wish to order. Then select any style and choose a fabric and color. Click on the "ok" button to add it to the shopping cart and on subsequent special request sections, indicate the style variations or reference the style to be replicated. This information will then be incorporated into the order. Measurements are provided by logging into your account, setting up a profile, and submitting measurements. When you use our measurement forms and view our video tutorials you can specify exact measurements for the garments you order.

It takes seven to ten working days to complete an order and three to four working days in transit for final delivery, worldwide.

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2ab) What is the difference between a Suit Jacket, a Blazer and a Sports Jacket ?
Sports jackets, blazers and suit jackets are similar in their fundamental design. Suit jackets are made with single, side or no vents, while sports jackets often are made with a center vent. Blazers typically have side vents. Suit coats and the pants that go with them are typically the same material and color. Sports jackets can be any color and often reflect a pattern such as hounds-tooth, herringbone, or checks. Sports jackets usually aren´t made in striped patterns.

Blazers are traditionally made in solid dark colors; blue, navy, black, burgundy, green, and red. White and ivory are also popular blazer colors.
Blazers are made with gold or silver buttons while sports jackets and suits have buttons that match the cloth fabric they are made from.

The cut of the three styles are similar but sports coats should never be double breasted. Blazers and suits can be single or double breasted. Classic traditional styles usually have one center vent at the back of the jacket. Very traditional jacket styles two side at the back of the jacket. Modern, Italian cut, slim styles have no vents. (Back)


Topic 3: Accessories, Special Requests , Monogrammes , Optionals , Trimmings

3a) What is the ready-to-wear category?
We monitor ongoing fashion and style patterns that will keep our clients aware of changes and emerging trends. With our Ready-to-Wear line of clothing, we offer garments and accessories for men and women that elevate a wardrobe to a higher level of convenience. Among the offerings are neckties, scarves, cuff links and soon - ready to wear suits.

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3b) What are working buttons/functioning buttons?
This refers to buttons on the sleeves of a jacket, coat or suit being constructed to allow for the sleeve cuffs to open up and the sleeves to be folded up. When a suit jacket or blazer has working sleeve buttons, the wearer is able to undo the buttons and let the sleeve cuffs drape loosely or fold the sleeves away from the hand. This is a great functionality to have, especially on snug fit jackets and suits or when working in a wet environment and not wanting to wit the coat sleeves.
Actuating sleeve buttons were introduced by the medical profession during the Crimean Wars when medical work was very messy and good suits were getting spoiled in the trenches.
Working or functioning buttons are created by hand, by embroidering or crocheting tight stitches (usually with linen or silk thread) over a knob or ring called a form.

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3c) What are Rope Shoulders? Can you do Rope Shoulders on suits?
Yes. A Rope Shoulder is hand stitching with strong sewing thread or rope at armhole and neckline seams to make these areas more secure. The construction process for this feature dictates that the sleeves be mounted on top of the shoulder rather than in line with the shoulder. This results in the sleeves creating a "rim" on the sleeve head where it is mounted on the shoulder. This rim results in a slight lift to the shoulder line towards the end of the shoulders. Rope shoulders are the traditional method of shoulder/sleeve construction on suits and jackets.

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3d) Can I order shirts with contrast collars and cuffs? Can you make shirts with white collars and white cuffs?
We can make to measure, almost any style of shirts or suits per your requirements. Dress shirts with contrast collars and cuffs or business shirts with white collars and cuffs are frequent requests and there is no additional charge. All fabrics and colors for shirts can be used with a white or contrasted collar and cuff. All collar styles and all types of Barrel or French Cuffs can be made in white or other contrasting colors with a different base color of the shirt.
Use our Style search page and type in the words,´white collar´ or ´white cuffs´ in the keywords field to view these options.

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3e) Do you make Non-Shatnez and Halacha compliant clothing?
As manufacturers, we are able to offer custom made clothing to serve specific religious requirements such as Non-Shatnez compliance at no additional cost. Our strict quality control mechanisms ensure true adherence to Halacha and compliance with other religion-centric clothing codes
To order Halacha compliant clothing, use the special requests section of the order placement process to indicate this requirement.

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3f) What material do you use for linings?
We use Italian designer silk satin linings and deluxe silk satin linings apart from standard satin acetate bemberg linings. Silk satin lining is made up of high quality gross grain silk satin.

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3g) What are hand stitched lapels and pockets?
Hand stitched lapels and pockets are features that go back to the days when all suits were only hand made. Back then, the outer and inner shells were constructed separately and sewn in, one into the other from the wrong side and then pulled inside out so that the right sides were out. In this sort of construction, the edges of the jacket were sewn in by hand to retain the integrity of the jacket and smooth out the edges. This hand sewing created small ripple effects on the jacket lapels and pockets. In high-end suits, you will find this feature replicated by machine stitched tiny ´dog tooth stitches´ on the lapels. We offer this as an optional feature in our suits and utilize the older traditional suit construction method by hand. Click on ´hand stitched lapels and pockets´ to see an image of this effect on the finished product.

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3h) What special requests for suits or shirts can I add to my order?
There is a long list of special requests, optional features, accessories and added customization that we offer. When ready to place your order, select the garment you wish to order and on the styles page you will notice a link to the list of optional and extra features available for that garment.
Monograms on suits and shirts, working sleeve buttons on jackets, removable collar stays on shirts, hand sewn lapels, full canvas front on jackets, contrast linings, hand basted fronts, mother of pearl buttons, etc., are some of the special features we offer for small premiums.
Use the link provided in the style selection pages to view a full list of special features we offer.

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3i) I want corporate logo, personal logo on the garments I Order.
We monogram or embroider corporate logos on shirts and jackets per your specifications. Send an email us that specifies the style of shirt or jacket you wish to order, the number of pieces, and a digital image of the logo you wish to have placed on the garments. The image can be sent to us as a Jpeg file format which ends in the extension .jpg and is no larger than 100 kb. Should multiple images be sent, please zip them before transmission. Specify fabric colors, back-ground colors if applicable, and the location and size of the logo.
Once confirmed, we will forward you a price quote and request any additional details as necessary.

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3j) Do you make removable collar stays on shirts?
All our shirts have removable collar stays unless they are Mandarin, Chinese, wingtip, hidden button down or button down collars. Collar stays are not required in shirts with no collars. Hidden buttons and button down collars make collar stays redundant. We can include permanent collar stays in the shirts if so desired. A preference for removable or permanent stays can be indicated in the special request section of the order placement process. This section comes up after the fabric, and the style and color of the shirts have been selected.

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3k) Can I order detachable collars on my shirts?
Yes. To order these, please visit one of our fabric collections, select your shirt category, the style and then the color. On subsequent special request pages, specific customization requests such as detachable collars, type of cuffs, pockets and so on can be made. This will then be incorporated into the order for an extra charge of $10.

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3l) How do I choose neckties or cuff links?
You can select neckties and cuff links from our Ready-to-Wear collections using links in the menu. These items can be shipped within 24 to 72 hours if they are in stock. If there is an existing order under production, items in the ready to wear collections will be consolidated with the existing order. If you are selecting neckties or cuff links during the process of ordering suits, shirts and other garments, then these items will be hand picked by our master tailors to match the garments you are ordering. This option is very much like in the old days when haberdashers used to personally select the best tie and other accessories for each ensemble they made. We also offer this opportunity to allow our master tailors and craftsman to personally match the items to the custom garments being constructed. Each accessory is hand selected and personally requisitioned for the individual. Should a necktie, cuff link, belt or scarf be ordered, give us an indication of personal preferences in the special request section of the order placement process.

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3m) I want half lined or fully lined pants and jackets.
All our jackets are fully lined though we can half line jackets if this is requested. All our pants are half lined in the front to the knees, though we can line them to the ankles if this is desired, for a small fee. Optional and added features requests are specified in the special request section of the order placement process and ordered via the accessories section.

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3n) I want monograms, working sleeve buttons, and hand stitched/pick stitched lapels. Is this possible?
Yes. These features are what distinguish a truly custom made garment from off-the-rack products. There is a small fee for these optional added value features. All these features and more, can be ordered via the accessories section of the order placement process.

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3o) What is a hand basted full canvas front?
The hand basted canvas front is a special feature where the canvas is attached to the front of the jacket by silk threads so that the top shell of the jacket actually floats on the canvas thus giving more fluidity and drape to the jacket. This is a time consuming and labor intensive process which adds to the price of a suit. This is the traditional old-style way of constructing the jacket or coat as opposed to the modern process of utilizing a high grade fusion and heat treatment.
There is an additional fee for this premium feature and a few extra days may be added to the delivery cycle. Only experienced tailors or very discerning dressers can tell if a suit has been made using hand basting. This is not a feature for the budget conscious nor a feature necessary for those not seeking an extra special product.

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3p) What monograms styles are available? How do I order them?
On shirts, we do three basic styles of monogramming in any specified color:
- Block Print classic monogram
- Script written monogram
- Diamond outline monogram

To indicate the color and style of monogramming, use the special requests section of the order placement process, after selection of style, fabric and color of the item. You Must indicate, the Location, Style, Color and Text of the monograms during order placement. There is a small fee for this extra value-added service.
On shirts, monograms can be located on the following locations:
- Top right of the pocket near the front of the shirt
- Top center of the pocket
- Middle of the pocket
- Above the pocket on the chest
- Below the pocket on the abdomen
- Top of the sleeves near the shoulders
- Left cuff center front above the thumb
- Left cuff above the watch face
- Right cuff center front above the thumb
- Right cuff above the watch face
The default location of monograms on shirts is the left cuff above the watch face if another location is not specified. If the text of the monograms has not been specified during order placement, the initials of the first and last name of the wearer will be used. If the color has not been specified, the default color used is a color that contrasts and matches with the color of the shirt.

On suits, jackets and coats, we do two basic styles of monogramming in any specified color. They are:
- Block Print classic monogram
- Written Script monogram
Monograms on suits, jackets and coats can either be the initials of the wearer or their full name. To indicate the color and style of the monogram, use the special requests section of the order placement process, after selection of style, fabric and color of the item. You Must indicate, the Location, Style, Color and Text of monograms during order placement. There is a small fee for this extra value-added service.
On suits, jackets and coats, monograms can be located on the following locations:
- Inside left side above the inner pocket
- Inside right side above the inner pocket
- Inside left side below the inner pocket
- Inside right side below the inner pocket
- Below the inner pocket on the abdomen/inner lining of the jacket
- Inner side of the collar just behind the neck
- Inner side of the top of the back, below the nape of the neck.
The default location of monograms on suits, jackets and coats is the left inside above the inner left pocket if the location is not specified. If the text of the monogram has not been specified during order placement, the full name of the wearer will be used. If the color has not been specified, the default color used is one that contrasts and matches with the color of the suit, jacket or coat.

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Topic 4: Fabrics and Styles

4a) I want to order a poplin, cotton, wool, silk suit/shirt?
We can certainly make a suit/shirt or even a coat, custom made in poplin/cotton/wool/silk or any other fabric. Use the fabric-search function on the left menu and type in the word ´silk´ or ´poplin´ to conduct a quick search for materials and colors. If the specific fabric or color you are looking for is not found, email us with the color requirement so that we can source it for your particular order.

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4b) I would like to order custom denim jackets/coats/slacks/jeans.
We regularly work with denim and deliver custom, made-to-measure jeans, slacks, jackets, coats and suits.
Use our Fabric Search function and type in the word ´Denim´ in the keywords field of the search criteria to review denim fabrics and the garments denim can be made into.
When ordering a garment type that is not displayed as a category for denim, email us the garment type you would like made, the style number or a link to an online image, the fabric number, and the color number for the garment. This enables us to provide a custom price quote for the order.

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4c) I am looking for a particular color.
Our inventory includes hundreds of colors and hues in a wide range of fabrics. To quickly find the color you are looking for or to review a desired fabric type, visit our ´search for a fabric/color´ link where you can conduct searches using criteria such as colors, weights, climatic conditions, patterns, etc. We are confident that a fabric or color of your choice will be available.

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4d) What is linen? Is it a good choice for custom garments?
A Pure Linen Suit is a wonderful garment. While it wrinkles easily, it represents a leisure image suit that no other fabric provides. Think casual, leisure, elegant, sporty, landed gentry, sunny, young, summer, tropical and mix it all up into a cocktail and that is the effect a pure Linen Suit gives.
We recommend pure Linen for summer suits if you can live with the wrinkles. Linen was originally made as a fabric for suits that would be worn only once before they would be dry cleaned and steam pressed. In fact, it is the wrinkles in a Linen Suit that give it great character. Even with the wrinkles, Linen always looks good and falls well in giving an excellent silhouette.

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4e) What is fabric popularity and how is it judged?
Our assessment of fabric popularity depends on many factors such as price, personal tastes, color, availability, and other such issues. Fabric popularity does not in any way imply that any fabric with low popularity is an inferior material. All our fabrics are high grade fabrics that have gone through extensive quality testing prior to being offered on our website.
The more a fabric is selected by a client the higher its popularity is assessed to be. Use our Fabric Search pages to access our most popular fabrics and materials.
You can also access fabrics using composition, climate, weight and pattern criteria.

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4f) I have a particular fabric in mind, how do I search for it?
You can conduct quick searches for fabrics that work best in the clothes you want to order. Use the Fabric Search function to access the perfect materials.
Criteria such as fabric weights, fiber compositions, patterns and designs, climate of use and many other similar single or combination of criteria can be used to pinpoint the best fabric for your requirements. Single or multiple search criteria are used for the best results. The listed fabrics will show how popular each fabric has been, the collection that the fabric is from and pricing for custom made garments in that fabric. Use the Fabric Search feature to quickly and easily pinpoint the best fabrics for the clothes you want to order.

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4g) What are the most popular fabrics? What are votes on fabrics?
Each time a custom garment is ordered in any particular fabric, the fabric gets a vote point. The higher the vote point, the more popular that fabric has been with our clients. All color selections for a particular fabric are considered a vote for that one fabric. We don´t keep a tally of the most popular colors. The fabric in all its colors is considered as one.
When using the Fabric Search function to show the most popular fabrics, the materials with the highest votes will show up chronologically.
Use this feature to quickly and easily pinpoint the best fabrics for your custom clothing needs.

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4h) I am looking for wrinkle resistant fabrics that are durable for everyday wear.
Our polyester blends, polyester mixes, and synthetic blends, especially in the Classic Collections, are perfect for high quality, wrinkle resistant, durable everyday wear.
You can use the Fabric Search function to quickly and easily pick out the perfect materials for your requirements. Select single or multiple criteria when doing your searches for perfect results.

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4i) Which fabric mills do you obtain your fabrics from? Where do most of your fabrics come from?
Most of our fabrics are sourced from suppliers here in Thailand. We order from France and a lot of the top range materials come from from Italy and the UK.
www.tessilgrosso.com, www.hollandandsherry.com, www.carlobarbera.it , www.vitalebarberiscanonico.it, www.reda.it, www.zignone.it and www.scabal.com are websites of some of our fabric suppliers. Only the best materials are ordered from these and other top-end millers.

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4j) What is PVC ? What is Pleather ?
Pleather is PVC leather, also known as poly vinyl chloride, that is imitation leather. It is synthetic material.

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4k) I am looking for fabric care information
General fabric care instructions are provided with every garment we deliver. All wool items must be dry cleaned only. Cotton and cotton blends can be machine washed in cold water but we recommend hand washing for durability. Natural drying is preferred over machine drying and hand washing over machine washing for all our cotton and cotton blend products. Pure silk or silk blends should be hand washed or dry cleaned. No garment should have a hot iron applied directly on it; place a white linen cloth between the iron and the custom garment or the item can be ironed from the reverse side. Steam pressing is also a good option. Use a very hot iron for pressing pure cotton cloth. Dry clean only and steam press for our wool or silk products.

If you have stains on your suits, here are a few quick fixes that can save you from always having them dry cleaned:
- Lipstick: Use hot water to rub off the oil base, then use soap to wash clean the stain
- Blood: Rub off with hydrogen peroxide
- Ink: Use gasoline to rub off stain, then wash off with soap
- Chewing gum: Do not attempt to peel it off as it will stick deeper into the fabric fiber. Put ice on it to solidify the gum, then peel it off when it hardens.
- Drinks: Use diluted vinegar to wash it off
- Soy Sauce: Rub off with ginger juice
- Shoe Polish: Rub off with gasoline
- Coffee: Rub with hot water, then wash off with soap
- Rust: Rub off with lemon
- Perfume stain: Rub off gently with rubbing alcohol

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4l) I want to know more about various silk types
- Squirrel tail silk is a matte finish light weight, flowing drape, easy care, wrinkle resistant, washable silk synthetic blend. It works well in a very light summer suit or a heavy evening shirt.
- A Thai Silk blend, a shirt fabric, is a gloss finish, shiny, easy care, light weight, wrinkle resistant, washable silk terelene blend fabric and excellent for evening dress wear.
- Pure Thai Silk is a stiffer, gloss finish, hand woven, pure silk fabric with a glossy dressy finish that is ideal for an elegant evening shirt, worn without a jacket.
It makes a very rich suit for evening wear. Pure Thai Silk should only be dry cleaned.
- Chinese silks are sand washed and have a velvety finish. These silks are extremely light weight, with a flowing drape. These two-tone matte finish materials should be hand washed only.
Chinese silks are mainly used for but in different weights can be used for different types of garments.
- The silk-cashmere blend is an excellent 10 ounce weight material, ideal for a suit that can be worn year-round. It has a soft feel and a gloss finish.
Imbued with subtle elegance, this silk, cashmere, wool and viscose blend make it very wrinkle resistant.
- Raw silk is a fancy, 9 ounce weight fabric for year-round wear. It has a matte nubby fleck finish that brings out a raw appearance. This is a silk/terelene blend material and extremely wrinkle-resistant for men´s and women´s suits, and sports jackets or blazers.

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4m) What fabrics do you have in the Closeouts Category? What are Exclusive Closeouts? Deluxe Closeouts?
Closeout fabrics are remnant materials left over from custom garments we have made.
These materials, originating from large bolts, are sufficient only for one garment as displayed.
This range includes fabrics that are cotton blends, wool, wool blends, silks and silk blends and is offered as a pot-luck choice. These garments are deeply discounted.
Remnant fabrics are selectively available in very limited colors at discount prices to create space for newer fabrics. Sometimes, closeouts offer great values. Our Deluxe Closeouts or our Exclusive Closeouts carry single color discontinued fabrics.

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4n) What material and colour has been used in the Style image I like ? I want to order the same. May we confirm that all our pieces are individually hand made-to-measure and not adjustments to off the rack sizes or off the rack sizes themselves.
Each piece is individually cut in the style, fabric, colour and measurements specifications provided when placing the order.
Since we are custom tailors, the images displayed at our website are not the finished products that we produce but reference guide to styles that you may want to see included in your custom piece.
Thus, after selecting the style most to your liking, you would need to select the fabric from the list of materials we have displayed and then the colour and on subsequent special request sections you can indicate any deviations or added customizations to the selected style.
Thus, you get to select the fabric that you would like the chosen style in rather than selecting from whatever fabric, colour and style combination available when buying suits off the rack ready to wear.
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4o) How can I order a garment from one collection in a fabric from another collection?
This is easily accomplished. Select the type of item you wish to order, a suit or a shirt for example, from the collection that you would like to have the fabric from. Then, select any style from within the category of the desired fabric collection for the sake of order placement. Next, use the subsequent special request section of the order placement process to indicate a change of style from the one selected to the style number preferred. We will then use your instructions to custom make the garment in the fabric and style selected.

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4p) I am a woman, but I like men´s style shirts and suits. How do I order them ?
You can either select the styles that are more masculine from the women´s categories or you can select from the men´s categories. If styles are selected from the men´s categories, use the special request section of the order placement process to indicate that the custom garment should be made in the men´s style but for a woman to wear. Use the women´s measurement forms for the size submission to ensure that the proportioning of the garments is appropriate for a female physique.

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4q) How can I order custom-made denim jeans?.
We make denim jeans to measure in light blue, dark blue and black. Two kinds of denim are available. Light weight, thin denim is ideal for pleated pants and heavier sturdy denims are ideal for typical 501 style classic jeans. All our denims are prewashed and preshrunk for maximum comfort and ideal fit.
To order, visit our catalogs to check out available styles and colors.

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4r) I would like to order a suit/shirt in white/cream/blue/yellow/pink/orange or in a color not shown on your site. What Fabric is best for such a garment?
We can certainly make a suit/shirt/tuxedo or even a coat, custom made in white/cream/blue/yellow/pink/orange or in any other color currently not displayed on our website.
We recommend fabrics such as 119, 128, 120, 116, 1011 and other silks and linens as ideal for a custom garment in special colors.
The fabric search function on the left menu can be used to type in the word ´silk´ or ´linen´ to conduct a search for all the materials with unusual colors. If the specific color you want is not found, please email us us with the color requirement so that we can source it for your particular order.

If a white/off-white/cream/ivory/other color suit or shirt is required in any of the fabrics and is not displayed in the color palette when choosing the fabric, we will find an appropriate source and get it.
In the case of white/off-white/cream/ivory colors, proceed to the appropriate category or collection and select the item you would like to have made. Then select the style you like and on the subsequent page, select the fabric. Then, for the sake of order placement, select a color from the palette. If you don´t see the color you want, go to the next page which is the special request section and specify the color you prefer. All displayed styles in each collection can be made in your preferred color.

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4s) I would like to buy fabric only. Do you sell by the yard ? What is the cost per yard?
We will sell you our fabrics if this is your requirement. Please specify the cloths you want to buy so that we can forward you a quote. Email us the complete yardage you need so shipping and handling costs can be correctly calculated and included. Once confirmed, please use the ´offsite purchases´ link at our website to submit payment as necessary.

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4t) I am looking for a particular fabric. Can you source a fabric I am looking for?
Yes, we can. Send us an image of the material, or a link to an online image, or send us a swatch or a detailed description of the fabric and we will attempt to source it for you.
More information and instructions on sending fabric and specifying the fabric quantity needed can be found at this link.
To place CMT orders, use this form.

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4u) Where and how do I view the various fabrics?
You can view fabrics by doing a fabric search using the link on the left menu above and typing in the fabric name or characteristic or fabric number as explained on the search page. There is no single place where fabrics can be viewed on our website, since fabric choice depends not only on the chosen collection but also on the item and style selected. When visiting our Deluxe Collections, for example, select the category, such as double-breasted suits and then select the style. When you click on the image of the style, you will be taken to the page that lists the available fabrics in that category. Upon clicking the name of the fabric, you will be able to view a palette of available colors for that fabric. You will be able to see fabric swatch on the box above the selected style. Clicking on the ´ok´ button will add the item in that material and color to your shopping cart.

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4v) Does RavisTailor make custom clothes with fabric I provide?
Yes. This is called CMT work or in other words Cut Make Trim work. Prices and how to place CMT orders are displayed in our CMT pages here.
Before sending the fabric to us, you would need to place a CMT order and use the reference number of that order when shipping the cloth to us. To send the fabric to us, follow the instructions outlined below:
a. Pack the materials in as small a package as possible and include your name, address, telephone number and Customer ID within the package. The customer ID is the number you find in the subject field of any email received from us.
b. Send it by registered/certified airmail. Please do not use a courier for this as their inbound services into Thailand leave a lot to be desired.
Please put a low value on the package, under USD 15 for example.
c. Declare the item as old cloth of no commercial value for sampling purposes only.
d. Include a note in the package that outlines the order in as much detail as possible.
Remember to include any special requests for any of the items such as hand-stitched lapels and pockets on jackets, working sleeve buttons on jackets, contrast linings on jackets and vests, monograms on jackets, vests or shirts and any other specifications you want. These options are available at a small premium, which will be added to your order totals
e. Our mailing address is:
Ravis Custom Tailors
Klongtan P O Box 21
Klongtan Post Office
Bangkok 10116
Thailand
Tel: +66 81 987 8717
f. Please contact us and let us know when the fabric has been sent to us so that we can keep an eye out for it.
g. You would need to have the measurements submitted by setting up measurements profiles by logging into the MyAccounts feature on our website.
Alternatively, you may want to include well fitting sample garments in the package for replication of measurements and/or styles from your sample garments.

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4w) Does RavisTailor customize to any style?
If you would like us to custom-make garments to styles not displayed or available at our website, send an image file or a link to an online image, along with your order. Our email address is ravi@ravistailor.com Please contact us for more information. When sending an image file, use JPEG formats and keep the file as small as possible.

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4x) Can you make a custom piece of clothing from an image I send to you?
Yes. Email the image in JPEG format that ends with the extension .jpg and ensure that the size of the image is not more than 50 kilobytes. Alternatively, you can email us a link to an online image. This can be sent to ravi@ravistailor.com along with your customer ID and/or order ID.

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4y) Can I order swatches?
Yes. Please make use of our online swatch form to select up to 20 different fabric and color choices that interest you most so that swatches can be mailed to you.
You can also order a ´Style Catalogue´ of our most popular styles for men and 95 swatches personally hand selected by our Master Tailors in solids and patterns, light to mid-weights, and year-round fabrics from our mid to upper range collections.
When you order a ´Style Catalogue´ you will receive a $10 discount when placing your next order with us using the swatches shipped to you.
Please use this form to submit your swatch or catalogue requisition request.
The fabrics from our Heritage Gold Collection and Deluxe Collection are not stocked in our inventory but are sourced from our suppliers in Europe, so we do not provide swatch catalogues for those materials.

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4z) I would like to know more about Textiles.
Read our Textile Glossary explaining the different fabrics and materials from around the world.

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4aa) Where can I find more information about fashion and clothing?
Ravis Tailors provides a vast knowledge base on the unique and fascinating environment that defines tailor made men´s and women´s clothing and apparel. Here you will find information on textiles, styles, designs and fabrics for custom tailored suits, shirts, pants, coats, jackets, leather and suede garments and more. What is most important is expertise and experience that custom tailors contribute to the processing of all kinds of fabrics and styles. They take client preferences, match them with their knowledge of how to make custom garments, and deliver ´works of art´ that fit perfectly and make people feel good about themselves and their appearance. For some some interesting facts about Ravis Tailors, check out our trivia page. Also, visit the Special Offers page to see our ongoing array of wardrobe specials.

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4ab) What is the difference between CLASSIC COLLECTIONS, EXCLUSIVE COLLECTIONS, DELUXE COLLECTIONS and HERITAGE GOLD COLLECTIONS?
The fabrics in our Classic Collections are all made in Thailand and have a higher synthetic content to make them more wrinkle resistant and easy to maintain. These fabrics are excellent for traveling and they make very cost effective suits. The Exclusive Collections fabrics are all imported with minimal synthetic blends and are generally lighter in weight. They have a softer drape and fall. These fabrics are richer in look and feel.The Deluxe Collection fabrics are pure wool, cashmere, and other premier fabrics imported from countries like Italy, France and the the UK. These materials do not contain any synthetic fibers. If you are willing to pay a little more for an exceptionally tailored suit or related accessory, we recommend you order Exclusive or Deluxe Collection fabrics. Order shirts from the Classic Collections and you will enjoy great quality and exceptional value.
Many first-time clients order from our Classic Collections for suits to confirm the fit, the cut of our products, and the extraordinary level of personal service before investing in higher-end selections.
The fabrics in the HERITAGE GOLD COLLECTIONS are sourced from top-end suppliers such as Dormieul, Holland and Sherry, Reda, Barberis and others in Europe. These fabrics are among the best available in the world and cost us more to import, contributing to their higher prices.
The DELUXE COLLECTIONS itself is a very high-end fabric range comparable to the best there is, but since it is available here in Thailand, and also stocked in our inventory, economies of scale allow us to produce high quality and reasonable prices. For the sake of comparison, an equivalent suit to our single breasted two piece from the Classic Collections sells in the USA for around USD 600 off the rack. An equivalent of our single breasted two piece suit from the exclusive collections retails in the USA for around USD 750+. A suit equivalent to our deluxe collection single breasted suit retails for USD 950 in the USA.
Fabrics from our HERITAGE GOLD collections are rarely available as off-the-rack suits and are generally found only at very high-end custom tailors such as those on Saville Row, England. The suits in our HERRITAGE GOLD collection, if found off-the-rack and ready-to-wear from a designer label, generally retails for USD 1500 + and if made to measure by a custom tailor in the UK or the USA, would generally go for USD 2500+ or GBP 1800+.

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4ac) How can I order a CATALOGUE of your products?
All our styles and fabrics are displayed online at our website. We do not publish printed catalogues but we use published images as guidelines to offering the best in custom made clothing. We work with almost any style so you can send us email images/links for us to review. You can order a ´Digital Catalogue´ of our products at this link. These can be sent to you via airmail at 4-6 week delivery or by courier for a 3-5 day delivery.

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Topic 5: Wardrobe Specials, Package Offers, Discounts, Promotions

5a) What discount is available on bulk and wholesale orders?
Discounts are offered selectively depending on total quantities, styles, fabrics, colors, delivery deadlines and other relevant factors.
Submit the bulk/wholesale order form for a competitive price quote.

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5b) What special offers and promotions are available?
Visit our Promotions page to review the current promotions and offers we have available at any point in time.
Take advantage of selective discounts available for orders of multiple pieces of custom clothing at our Special Offers page.

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5c) I want to change fabrics available in a Wardrobe Special I like.
Wardrobe specials already include substantial discounts. A fabric change from a more expensive collection to a less expensive collection will not merit a further discount.
However, an upgrade to a fabric from a less expensive collection to a fabric in a more expensive collection would entail an upward price revision.
To indicate a change of fabric, please submit your special order offer and use the request section of the order placement process to indicate a change of fabric from the one selected to the one preferred.
Next, email us an update as soon as your order has been placed so the change in fabric can be confirmed via email.

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5d) I want to order more than three suits or more than ten shirts. Can you offer a discount?
We provide special pricing discounts for bundled orders that encompass multiple people. A comprehensive order package can be effectively discounted so that price breaks
can be enjoyed by a group of people placing their orders together.
Send the following order information via email so we can determine the appropriate discount to offer and begin processing your order:
- Total number of items to be made
- Style number for each item
- Fabric number for each item
- Color for each item. (email us in this format; 1 suit, fabric 101, color black, style 1 and so on)
- Special requests details for each item
- Measurements for each individual are submitted by logging into ´MyAccounts´ and using the links on the left menu.
Having all the pertinent information as detailed above will enable us to customize your special discount depending on the total volume ordered
Alternatively, there are always Special Offers available where substantial savings can be realized on individual items.

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5e) Do I get a discount when ordering more than a few pieces at regular prices?
At select times we offer special gifts or complimentary products for orders of a set minimum value. The value of these gifts varies but the minimum order requirement details to qualify are communicated during the order placement process. Our offers and promotions are available at Our Promotions page. Terms and conditions may apply. Promotions also feature our Wardrobe Specials and Package Offers. Wedding party orders receive discounts Wedding Orders page based on the total value of the collective order.

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5f) I am a webmaster, I have my own site(s). What interesting offers are available for me?
We do have special offers and promotions for webmasters or those with their own websites. These usually take the form of a free custom garment in return for banner and link placements for a fixed period of time. You can choose our six month promotion to qualify for a free shirt or a one year promotion to qualify for a free suit.
In applying for these considerations,we request the following information:
- Website URL
- Number of hits per month on your website (preferably backed by a third party statistics report)
- Number of unique visitors per month
- Target market of the website
- Proposed locations for the banners and links you want to place
- Proposed method of marketing your website
- Current online marketing methods for drawing visitors to your website
- Three month web report of statistics if available (this will help greatly in quicker approval)
Contact us for confirmation and subsequent details for the necessary scripts and details if your proposal is approved.

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5g) How do I order a gift certificate ? How do I claim stored value in a certificate ?
There are two ways a gift certificate can be ordered. A fixed value certificate can be ordered and the recipient then selects whatever item they want. Or, you can select the collection you would like to purchase from and select the kind of item and style. Then specify ´order this item as a gift´ feature of the order placement process to select the gift and have us forward the certificate to the recipient. In the second method, the recipient cannot choose another item or change the fabrics or styles unless they are willing to pay incremental charges.
To claim stored value in a gift certificate or to redeem a gift certificate, please keep the certificate and when placing the order, use the certificate number in the appropriate field. The stored value in the certificate will automatically be deducted from the total of your order and any left over value will be carried over to your next order, using the same certificate number.

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5h) How and can I claim my complimentary gift or other giveaways ?
Complimentary gifts and giveaways can only be claimed with the next order placed. When placing your next order, email or contact us with your entitlement confirmation and any pertinent details so the gifts or giveaways can be included in the subsequent shipment. (Back)


Topic 6: Common Terms, Names, Processes in Custom Tailoring

6a) What is SINGLE-NEEDLE STITCHING? Can you do Single Needle Stitching on shirts?
All our shirts are constructed using the single-needle stitching method. We do not use lock stitching or interlocking to close the seams in our shirts. Lock-stitching refers to the two threads, upper and lower, being locked together in the hole in the fabric through which they pass. Unlike chain stitch, lock-stitch does not unravel easily, making it difficult to remove. The term single-needle stitching, often found on dress shirt labels, refers to lock stitch, as opposed to chain stitch which unravels easily and is usually used on lower quality garments.

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6b) What is a PLACKET?
A placket is a strip of fabric between one and two inches wide sewn onto a garment as a separate piece or sewn into a garment to appear as a part of the garment itself. Plackets are almost always used to facilitate putting on or taking off the garment, but are sometimes used as a design element as well (non-functional design purposes). The term placket usually refers to the center-front of a button-front shirt. Plackets can also be found at the neckline of a shirt, the cuff of a sleeve, or at the waist of a skirt or pair of pants.

Plackets are almost always made of more than one fabric layer and often have interfacing between the fabric layers. This is done to give support and strength to the placket fabric because the placket and the fasteners on it are often subjected to stress when the garment is worn. The two sides of the placket often overlap to protect the wearer from fasteners rubbing against their skin.

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6c) What is ply?
Ply refers to the number of individual yarns used as a strand. Single-ply fabric is woven from one individual yarn; 2-ply fabric is made from yarns that are twisted together and then woven. If 2-ply yarn is used, the finished construction will have twice the thread count of the same construction made from single-ply yarn. 2-ply yarn must be made from a very high yarn size (like 100) or they will feel thick and heavy.

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6d) What is yarn size?
Yarn size refers to the thickness of the yarns used to make the fabric. A higher yarn size means a finer yarn. Generally, sheets are made from a yarn size range of 40 to 100. Obviously, the finer the yarn, the more of them will fit in a square inch.

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6e) What materials and related items used in suit making?
Body Canvas
There are basically two types of canvas used; each type has a like medium and hard grade. The original consultation and the cloth would dictate which type and grade of canvas to be used. The two basic grades are woolen canvas and lining canvas
Hair Cloth
There are several different types and grades of hair cloth. Ravis uses ten different grades depending on the construction of the coat and the weight of the cloth. For simplicity, number 1 grade is very lightweight, number 2 is slightly heavier and number 10 is obviously the heaviest. We choose the most appropriate hair cloth based on the customer consultation and the type of cloth specified.
Domette
This is a fine cloth used to cover the hair cloth over the canvas to prevent the hair cloth from coming through the canvas and cloth. Some of the older tailors prefer felt to Domette but this is not good current technique. Customers don’t just want to just look good, they also want to feel good in what they are wearing.
Body Lining
There are dozens of body lining types to choose from, depending again on customer preference. Some choose pure silk lining but other frequently used linings are shown below -
- Acetate Poult - Black, White, Ivory and Greige Acetate Microfibre Lining
- Acetate/Bemberg Lining
- Acetate/Viscose Satin Lining- Bemberg 100% Ponginette Lining
- Bemberg Taffeta Shot Lining
- Bemberg Twill Lining
- Silk/Viscose Linings
- Viscose/Acetate Shot Twill Lining
- Viscose Rayon Heavy Twill - Military Cols.
- Viscose S/L Regency Stripes
- Viscose Satin Lining - Tailoring shades
- Viscose Twill Lining Ermazine Lining – Viscose
- Colored Linings
Linen
There are several types of linen, depending on the type of cloth being used. Linen is commonly used on the backing of the pockets for strength and in the cuffs where the button holes and the buttons are sewn. It can also be used at the bottom of the jacket, on the back neck and on the back syes.
Pocketing
There are several different types, grades, and colors. We prefer to use a medium weight pocket with a color that matches the garment.
Collar Melton
This is the felt-like cloth found under the collar. Along with the collar canvas, the melton is used to complete the collar construction. The Collar Melton should always be cut on the bias and should be the same(or similar) color as the cloth. Some people choose to use complementary colors.
Collar Canvass
There are basically three types of collar canvas, type 1 is a linen canvas cut on the bias, a type used by Anderson & Sheppard (Savile Row). While this creates a very soft collar, it can appear messy if not constructed correctly.Type 2 is a medium-grade canvas which is much stiffer. Type 3 is a slightly harder canvas than type 2. When trying a garment on for the first time, it will look brownish.
Stay Tape (Linen)
Stay tape, made of linen, is used on the front edges of the coat. It functions to prevent the front edges from stretching or twisting. It should always be sewn on by hand.
Sleeve Head Wadding
This is a pre-made wadding specifically used to go around the sleeve head. Sleeve head wadding gives the roundness to a sleeve around your shoulders.
Shoulder Pads
Tailors have a choice of over 5000 shoulder pads but we use only three pads, made exclusively for us. We model them to meet our individual requirements.
Button Twist
Button twist is used to make button holes. There are thousands of colors, but most tailors use only one or two makes in seeking quality of twist.
Button Gimp
This is used when making button holes. The gimp is placed along the button hole and the button twist is sewn around the gimp, giving the button hole a slightly stiffer finish. There are several different grades of gimp.
Sewing Silk
Sewing silk is used for hand sewing of linings, the under collar where the melton attaches itself to the cloth, and in attaching shoulders and sleeves.

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6f) What is Glen Plaid?
Glen Plaid (or glenurquhart) is the genus and Prince of Wales Plaid is a species. Glen-Plaid refers only to the plaid pattern, whatever its color or scale. The particular rust-red, large-scale plaid described above is an old Scottish "district check" that was popularized by David, Prince of Wales, in the 1920s. Thus it came to be known as the "Prince of Wales Plaid." In later years, the terms came to be conflated, so that people would refer to any glen-plaid as a PoW plaid. But, technically, the true PoW plaid is the particular district check first popularized by the prince who became Edward VIII and then the Duke of Windsor. Keywords: glen-plaid, glen, plaid, glen plaid, check, squares, checks, checkered, checquered, plaids, Prince of Wales plaid, district check, prince of wales, jackets, sports, sports jackets, blazer, blazers, suit, suits, men´s, plaid suit, check suit, Prince of Wales Suit, plaid jacket, check jacket, prince of wales jacket, coat, coats, hunting jacket, plaid hunting jacket, check hunting jacket.

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6g) What is thread count?
Thread count refers to the number of horizontal and vertical threads in one square inch of fabric. Thread count in sheets can range from 80 to 700, although most stores sell sheets that range from 180 to 320. Generally, the higher the thread count, the softer the fabric feels, but that doesn´t necessarily translate to a longer lasting sheet(sheets with a higher thread count are usually more expensive). One Linens Department Manager says thread counts above 380 are really irrelevant. Manufacturers twist two threads in a way that lets them double the thread count.

Many linens manufacturers tout thread count as the best way to choose a sheet. But, others point out that the quality of the fibers and finish are a more important determinate of comfort and durability. In fact, sheets made of linen, flannel, or jerseys (those trendy “T-shirt” sheets) have low thread counts. A high thread count would eliminate part of the appeal of these sheets. According to Consumer Reports, cotton and cotton-blend sheets with a thread count of 180 to 200 stand up to wear and tear and provide satisfactory comfort. (Back)


Topic 7: Fabrics and their Features

7a) What is Micro Suede?
Micro suede is another term for Microfiber that is woven to look like real suede. It is usually a nylon/polyester blended yarn that is spun into a microfiber-like fabric. It is then brushed twice to achieve the suede touch. The first brushing is applied before dyeing and the second brushing is considered a ´suede´ process which actually is a brushing with pins. Then the fabric is dyed and sheared which gives the final suede look and feel.

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7b) What is two-fold or two-ply cloth?
High-end fabrics used in seasonal shirts are produced from fine natural fibers in two-fold, super fine cotton like 100s,120s and 140s. Two-fold cotton has 2 yarns that have been twisted together tightly to form one yarn. The advantage over a single-yarn fabric (singles) is greater durability; weaker spots are reinforced and yarns are stronger and do not fray easily. Normally these types of fabrics are mentioned as 2/60s, 2/80s, 2/100s, 2/120s. Here 2 stands for two-ply or two-fold.

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7c) What is Dormieul?
Dormieul is a manufacturer of very high-end pure wool cloth for men´s suits and slacks. They are located in England and have trading offices in most European countries as well as tailoring centers in Asia. Cloth from Dormieul is renowned worldwide for its unique hand and luxurious feel. Dormieul suit fabrics are typically made in the tradition of British tastes with most fabrics being in traditional business colors and patterns such as Chalk Stripes, Bankers Stripes, Pin Stripes, Prince of Wales check etc.

Dormieul is famous for its,´smooth as silk´, finish on wool suits and it´s superb luster. A person who wears Dormieul stands out as someone who knows what to wear and how to wear it. You can learn more about premium fabrics by visiting our Glossary pages or you can do quick cloth searches using one or more criteria to help pick what you want, based on weight, patterns, content and other requirements.

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7d) What are Super 100s, 110s, 120s, 130s, 150s, and 180s?
It represents the fineness of fabric yarn. The higher the number the greater the fineness. The yarn number for cotton is based on the number of 840-yard hanks in a pound. The convention for indicating plies resembles that for wool. Two-ply 20s would be written 2/20s or 20/2, and would be twice the weight, length for length, of single ply 20s yarn.

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7e) What is the Designer Brand Collections?
The fabrics in our Designer Brand Collections are sourced from top mills and cloth manufacturers worldwide. Cloth from mills such as Dormieul, Scabal, Zegna etc are included in this collection. The fabrics are some of the best in the world and have a super luxurious finish and hand.
You can learn more about fabrics by visiting our Glossary pages or you can do quick searches using one or more criteria to help pick specific cloth you might be interested in, based on the weight, patterns, content and other requirements, using our Cloth Search function.

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7f) What is Seersucker?
A narrow striped cotton fabric with alternate stripes crinkled in the weaving that has a crepe-stripe effect. Colored stripes are often used alternating with white. Seersucker has a matte surface in light, and medium to heavy weights. The woven crinkle is produced by alternating slack and tight yarns in the warp. This effect is permanent. Some seersucker cloths may be produced by pressing/ironing or a chemical treatment, which is unlikely to be permanent. Seersucker is also called plisse. It is durable and is especially appropriate for very hot summers. It can be laundered without having to iron; it is essentially wrinkle resistant by nature. It can be bleached, yarn dyed, or printed. Some seersucker fabrics come in a check or plaid effect as well. Seersucker has many uses; summer suits, coats, uniforms, trims, nightwear, sportswear, dresses, blouses, children´s wear of all kinds, curtains, bedspreads, slipcovers, etc.
Since we do not stock seersucker, email uswe can source it from our suppliers. Generally, colors such as light blue on white, navy on white, black on white and grey on white are easily available.

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7g) What is ply?
Ply refers to the number of individual yarns used as a strand. Single-ply fabric is woven from an individual yarn; 2-ply fabric is made from yarns that are twisted together and then woven. If 2-ply yarn is used, the finished construction will have twice the thread count of the same construction made from single ply yarn. 2-ply yarn must be made from a very high yarn size (like 100) or they will feel thick and heavy.

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7h) What is yarn size?
Yarn size refers to the thickness of yarns used to make fabric. A higher yarn size means a finer yarn. Generally, sheets are made from a yarn size range of 40 to 100. Obviously, the finer the yarn, the more that will fit in a square inch.

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7i) What is thread count?
Thread count is the number of horizontal and vertical threads in one square inch of fabric. Thread count in sheets can range from 80 to 700, although most stores sell sheets that range from 180 to 320. In general, the higher the thread count, the softer the fabric feels, but that doesn´t necessarily mean the sheets will last longer (and sheets with a higher thread count are usually more expensive). One Linens Department Manager says thread counts above 380 are essentially meaningless. Manufacturers twist two threads in a way that lets them double the sheet´s thread count.

Recently, many linens manufacturers have touted thread count as the best way to choose a sheet. But others point out that the quality of the fibers and finish are more important for comfort and durability. In fact, sheets made of linen, flannel, or jerseys (those trendy “T-shirt” sheets) have low thread counts due to the type of fabric. A high thread count would eliminate part of the appeal of these sheets. According to Consumer Reports, cotton and cotton-blend sheets with a thread count of 180 to 200 stand up to wear and tear and provide satisfactory comfort.

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7j) What is a Burn Test? How do I test a fabric?
Burn Test - CAUTION. WARNING. BE CAREFUL! This should only be done by skilled burners! Make sure there is a bucket of water nearby and that you burn in a metal bucket or non-plastic sink.
To identify fabric that is unknown, a simple burn test will determine if the fabric is a natural fiber, man made fiber, or a blend of natural and man made fibers. The burn test is used by many fabric stores and designers but it takes practice to determine the exact fiber content. However, an inexperienced person can determine the difference between many fibers to "narrow" the choices down to natural or man made fibers. This elimination process will give information necessary to decide the care of the fabric. WARNING: All fibers will burn! Asbestos treated fibers are, for the most part, fire proof. The burn test should be done with caution. Use a small piece of fabric only. Hold the fabric with tweezers, not your fingers. Burn over a metal dish with soda in the bottom or even water in the bottom of the dish.

Some fabrics will ignite and melt. The result is burning drips which can adhere to fabric or skin and cause a serious burn.
- Cotton is a plant fiber. When ignited it burns with a steady flame and smells like burning leaves. The ash left is easily crumbled. Small samples of burning cotton can be blown out as you would a candle.
- Linen is also a plant fiber but different from cotton in that the individual plant fibers which make up the yarn are long where cotton fibers are short. Linen takes longer to ignite. The fabric closest to the ash is very brittle. Linen is easily extinguished by blowing on it as you would a candle.
- Silk is a protein fiber and usually burns readily, not necessarily with a steady flame, and smells like burning hair. The ash is easily crumbled. Silk samples are not as easily extinguished as cotton or linen.
- Wool is also a protein fiber but is harder to ignite than silk as the individual "hair" fibers are shorter than silk and the weave of the fabrics is generally looser. The flame is steady but more difficult to keep burning. The smell of burning wool is like burning hair.

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7k) What is manufactured – man made fabrics and manufactured fiber types?
Manufactured fabrics are usually made of filaments extruded as liquid and formed into various fibers. Because many fibers start as a liquid, many of them are colored before they become filament. This makes the difficult to dye after the fiber is woven into a fabric.
ACETATE is not a strong fiber but can be extruded into fibers of different diameter and woven into fabrics that have the luxurious look of silk but do not wear like silk. Acetate does not absorb moisture readily but dries fast and resists shrinking. This is a resilient fabric that resists wrinkling in addition to being pliable and soft with a good drape. Tri-acetate is an improved acetate fabric which doesn´t melt easily and is easier to care for. Remember, acetate in nail polish and nail polish remover will melt acetate as will alcohol so take care with perfumes and nail products including SuperGlue.
ACRYLIC is a fine soft and luxurious fabric with the bulk and hand of wool. Light weight and springy, this fabric is non-allergenic, dries quickly, draws moisture away from the body and is washable. Acrylic will not take even a moderate amount of heat. Mod-acrylics are used in pile fabrics like fake fur and are more flame resistant.
LASTEX is an elastic fiber made from Latex. It is most often used with other fibers to create fabrics such as Spandex and foundation garments. Lastex will deteriorate after repeated washing and drying, losing its elasticity.
NYLON became a household word in 1940 when it was knitted into hosiery. In 1942 it was called into service for the armed forces use in parachutes, flak vests, combat uniforms, tires and many other vital military uses. Until the war was over nylon was not available to the public. Nylon became one of the most versatile fibers of the man-made fabrics. In addition to hosiery, nylon is used in tricot, netting for bridal veils, and in carpeting. Nylon is stronger yet weighs less than any other commonly used fiber. It is elastic and resilient and responsive to heat setting. Nylon fibers are smooth, non-absorbent and dry quickly. Dirt doesn´t cling to this smooth fiber nor is it weakened by chemicals and perspiration. Extensive washing and drying in an automatic dryer can eventually cause piling. Nylon whites should be washed separately to avoid graying. This fabric may yellow so it should be bleached frequently with sodium perborate bleach. Nylon melts at high temperatures. If ironing is necessary, always use a low temperature on the wrong side.
Polyester is manufactured in many weights including fiber-fill used in pillows and upholstery. Threads spun from polyester fibers are strong, wear exceptionally well, and are used extensively in home sewing and manufactured sewing.
RAYON from cellulose, has many of the qualities of cotton, a natural cellulose fiber. Rayon is strong, extremely absorbent, comes in a variety of qualities and weights, and can be made to resemble natural fabrics. Rayon does not melt but burns at high temperatures. Rayon drapes well, has a soft, silky hand, and has a smooth, napped, or bulky surface. Rayon will wrinkle easily and may stretch when wet and shrink when washed. Technological advancements to the rayon process have produced high wet modulus [HWM] rayons such as Lyocell and Modal which makes fabric less prone to stretch when damp or wet. Washable rayon will state the care on the fabric label. Like silk, if you pre-wash rayon fabric prior to construction of the garment, you have a washable garment.
Here is a Glossary of Rayon Fabrics
- Fibranne is a French term for Viscose rayon.
- Velvet, although made from silk, is most often produced from the rayon fiber.
- SPANDEX is an elastic type fiber that can be stretched many times its length and then spring back to the original length. Spandex is more resistant to washing, perspiration, and heat than latex. Spandex is used in foundation garments and hosiery.

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7l) What is hemp fiber and jute?
Hemp is frequently used by clothing designers. When thinking of hemp, the illegal plant, marijuana comes to mind. Hemp fabric does not contain the narcotic chemical. Marijuana is made from dried flowers and leaves of the Cannabis Sativa Plant. Hemp fabric is made from the stems of the plant, which are processed to dissolve the gum or pectin and separate the fibers which are then processed again and woven into yarns and fabric. The finest hemp for fabric is produced in Italy. Hemp fabric is like linen in both hand and appearance. Hemp fabric withstands water better than any other textile product. It wrinkles easily and should not be creased excessively to avoid wear and breakage of the fibers.

RAMIE is also similar to linen and is a bast of plant fiber. It is natural white in color, has a high luster and an unusual resistance to bacteria and molds. Used in fabrics, and often mistaken for linen, it is extremely absorbent and dries quickly. Ramie has excellent abrasion resistance and has been tested to be three to five times stronger than cotton and twice as strong as flax. It is an inexpensive fiber from an East Asian plant and can be spun or woven into a fabric.
JUTE is a glossy fiber from a plant. It is seen most often in sacks, rope, twine, and as backing on carpeting.

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7m) What are weaves and how are they different from fabrics?
Certain weaves are often mistaken for fabric types. For example, satin is a type of weave that does not denote fabric content. Satin is woven from silk, polyester, acetate, or even blends of fibers. Each different fiber content contributes to the hand and drape of the satin fabric. Satin is a weave that is seen in brocade, damask, and tapestry.

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7n) What is cotton? What are its uses?
Cotton, cool, soft, and comfortable comfortable is the principal clothing fiber of the world. Its production is one of the major factors in world prosperity and economic stability. Cotton "breathes".
What would we do without cotton? Since cotton wrinkles, polyester was added to give it wash and wear properties for a busy world. In recent times, the consumer determined that polyester, although easier to care for, took away the cool from cotton and also added a "pilling" effect to cotton/polyester blends. Consumers now often request "100% Cotton".

Permanent finishes also added to the all cotton fabric and gave a wash and wear property to cotton. Cotton fiber comes from the cotton plant´s seed pod. The fiber is hollow in the center and under a microscope looks like a twisted ribbon. "Absorbent" cotton will retain 24-27 times its own weight in water and is stronger when wet than dry. This fiber absorbs and releases perspiration quickly, thus allowing the fabric to "breathe". Cotton can stand high temperatures and takes dyes easily. Chlorine bleach can be used to restore white garments to a clear white but this bleach may yellow chemically finished cottons or remove color in dyed cottons.

Boiling and sterilizing temperatures can also be used on cotton without disintegration. Cotton can be ironed at relatively high temperatures, stands up to abrasion, and wears well.
Mercerized cotton is treated to permanently straighten the cotton fibers which then becomes a smooth, rod-like fiber that is uniform in appearance with a high luster. Cotton is often blended with other fibers such as polyester, linen, and wool, to "blend" the best properties of each fiber.

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7o) What is wool? What are the different kinds of wool and their advantages?
Wool fabric brings to mind cozy warmth. Some wool is scratchy giving some people the idea that they are "allergic" to wool. Although wool fiber comes from a variety of animal coats, not all wool is scratchy and some wool is extremely soft. The wool fibers have crimps or curls which create pockets to give wool a spongy feel. This quality often creates insulation for the wearer. The outside surface of wool fiber consists of a series of serrated scales which overlap each other much like the scales of a fish. This characteristic allows the fibers to cling together and produce felt. The same serrations will also cling together tightly when wool is improperly washed and that makes the material shrinks. Wool will not only return to its original position after being stretched or creased, it absorbs up to 30% of its weight in moisture without feeling damp. Its unique properties allow shaping and tailoring, making wool the most popular fabric for tailoring fine garments. Wool is also dirt resistant, flame resistant, and, in many weaves, resists wear and tearing.

Basically, there are two different processes used in wool production. Woolen fabrics have a soft feel and fuzzy surface, very little shine or sheen, will not hold a crease, and are heavier and bulkier than worsted materials. Blankets, scarves, coats and some fabrics are considered woolens. Worsted wool is smoother than woolen, takes shine more easily, does not sag, holds a crease well, is lighter and less bulky, and wears longer than regular wool. Worsted wool requires a greater number of processes, during which fibers are arranged parallel to each other. The smoother, harder-surface worsted yarns produce smoother fabrics with a minimum of fuzziness and nap. Fine worsted wool is even seen in clothing for athletics such as tennis. No, they are not hotter than polyester but actually cooler, as the weave of the fabric allows wool to absorb perspiration and the fabric "breathes," unlike polyester.

WOOL SPECIALTY FIBERS - although still classified as wool, they are further classified by the animal the fiber comes from:
- Alpaca Fleece is very rich and silky with considerable luster. It comes from the Alpaca.
- Mohair is from the Angora Goat and is highly resilient and strong. Mohair´s luster, not its softness, determines its value. Mohair is used in home decorating fabrics as well as garment fabrics including tropical worsted materials.
- Angora Wool is from the Angora Rabbit. This soft fiber is used in sweaters, mittens and baby clothes.
- Camel Hair comes from the extremely soft and fine fur from the undercoat of the camel. Camel´s hair can be used alone but is most often combined with fine wool for making overcoats, topcoats, sportswear and sports hosiery. Because of the beauty of the color, fabrics containing camel´s hair are usually left in the natural camel color or dyed a darker brown. Light weight and soft, 22 oz. camel fabric is as warm as a 32 oz. woolen fabric.
- Cashmere comes from Cashmere Goat down. Separation of the soft fibers from the long, coarse hair is tedious and difficult, contributing to the expense of the fabric. The soft hair is woven or knitted into fine garments and is blended with silk, cotton, or wool.
- Vicuna is the softest coat cloth in the world. The amount of coarse hair to be separated from the soft fibers is negligible and yields the finest animal fiber in the world. Vicuna is a member of the Llama family and is small and wild. Since it is generally killed to obtain the fleece, it is protected by rigorous conservation measures. This fiber is rare and very expensive, costing several hundred dollars per yard.

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7p) What kind of cloth is linen and what material is it composed of?
Linen is an elegant, beautiful, durable, and refined luxury fabric. Linen is the strongest of the vegetable fibers and has two to three times the strength of cotton. Linen table cloths and napkins have been handed down from generation to generation. Not only is the linen fiber strong, it is smooth, making the finished fabric lint free. Fine china, silver and candles are enhanced by the luster of linen which only gets softer and finer the more it is washed.

Linen comes from flax, a bast fiber taken from the stalk of the plant. The luster is from the natural wax content. Creamy white to light tan, this fiber can be easily dyed and colors do not fade when washed. Linen does wrinkle easily and presses well. Linen, like cotton, can be boiled without damaging the fiber. Highly absorbent and a good conductor of heat, linen is cool in garments.
Constant creasing in the same place in sharp folds tends to break the linen threads. This wear can show up in collars, hems, and any area that is iron creased during laundering. Linen has poor elasticity and does not spring back readily.

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7q) What is Glen Plaid?
Glen Plaid (or glenurquhart) is the genus and Prince of Wales plaid is a species. Glen-plaid thus refers only to the plaid pattern, whatever its color or scale. The particular rust-red, large-scale plaid described above is an old Scottish "district check" that was popularized by David, Prince of Wales, in the 1920s. Thus it came to be known as the "Prince of Wales Plaid." In later years, the terms came to be conflated, so that people would refer to any glen-plaid as a PoW plaid. But, technically, the true PoW plaid is the particular district check first popularized by the prince who became Edward VIII and then the Duke of Windsor.

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7r) What is Vicuna Wool?
One of the best, most luxurious wools for suits is the Vicuna Wool, taken from the Vicuna of the Andes Mountains in South America. The vicuña is a member of the Camel Family. It is the smallest of the six species of camel and is thought to be the wild ancestor of the Alpaca. It lives on the high, grassland plateaus of the Andes Mountains which range from southern Peru to northern Chile and into parts of Bolivia and Argentina. Only tough bunch grasses grows here. The sun´s ultraviolet rays burn through the thin atmosphere during the day. At night the heat of the day escapes into the atmosphere and the temperature goes down to freezing.

Although they look fragile, the Vicuña is specially adapted to its high-altitude habitat. It has an incredibly thick, soft coat that traps layers of warm air close to its body and protects it from freezing temperatures. The lower teeth of the vicuña grow constantly, like a rodent´s, so they can eat the tough grasses. The Vicuña also walks on the soles of its feet so it can flex its toes and grab on to the rocks and gravel-covered slopes. Vicuña Milk is very rich so offspring grow quickly. Vicuñas weigh between 75-140 pounds and are about 4-6 feet long, standing 2 to 3 1/2 feet at the shoulders. They have very long necks, round heads, and large, forward facing eyes. Their ears are long and pointed and stand up on their heads. Their fur is a rust color, with white around the muzzle,the chest, belly, and the insides of the legs. The white hair on their chests is longer than their other hair. They chew their cud when resting, getting more nutrients out of the nutrient-poor grass.

Vicuñas are very shy animals. They have two territories they defend from other herds; a feeding territory or about 45 acres and a smaller sleeping area on higher ground where they are more protected. The Vicuña live in herds of 5-10 members, which includes one dominant male and several females and their young. They mate in March and April and their young are born 11 months later. The young stay with their mother and the herd for another 10 months, at which time they are driven off by the herd. Young males will form bachelor groups and young females try to find another group to join. This ensures that the herd stays the same size, which is important with their limited food supply.

The vicuña species was nearly hunted to fringe of extinction for its beautiful soft wool. The Incas used to round up the wild Vicuñas and pen them in stone corrals, where they were sheared for their wool. By 1960 there were only 6,000 Vicuñas left in the wild. Chile and Peru established protected national parks and put a halt to trade in Vicuña wool. Now there are about 125,000 vicuñas, but they are still listed as threatened. The Vicuña is classified as vulnerable by the IUCN, and as endangered by the USDI.

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7s) What are natural fibers made from? What is a natural fiber?
Natural fibers are created using fibers of animals coats, silkworm cocoons, plant seeds, leaves, and stems. Click on the natural fiber below for information on each fiber and their weaves.
- Wool fibers come from animal coats; sheep, goats, rabbits, alpacas, llama, etc.
- Cotton fibers come from the cotton plant´s seed pod.
- Silk Fibers come from the cocoon of the silkworm.
- Linen comes from flax, a bast fiber taken from the stalk of the plant.
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Topic 8: Resellers

8a) I have a large group of people that I would like to order for. Can I get a discount?
We offer competitive prices and substantial discounts for orders that are placed for a large group of people.
For specific details, Email us the following information -
a. Total number of individuals you wish to place orders for
b. Total number of garments you wish to order
c. Fabric number (as shown in our Fabrics List) page that you wish to order from.
d. Styles of each of the garments you wish to order
e. Garment colors
f. Delivery deadline you wish us to work with
g. Proposed date you wish to proceed with the orders
h. Whether you wish us to make a consolidated shipment of the whole order or whether you wish each order to be shipped directly to an individual´s address.
Having this pertinent information will allow us to complete you a proposal.
You can also use our Wedding Orders Form to get great wedding party pricing discounts.

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8b) What are the Reseller and Franchise Opportunities offered by RavisTailor?
For information about purchasing a franchise in the RavisTailor.com website, please fill out our enquiry form and a representative of RavisTailor.com will contact you.

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8c) Who are the Business Associates of Ravis Custom Tailors?
The company is owned by Dema Collections Co. Ltd. Over the years, Ravis Custom Tailors has developed a superb reputation with clients, suppliers, and other local businesses. We are known for fast, efficient and reliable service coupled with high quality products. We have focused on being socially responsible and supportive of all local labor regulations. We are members of the Lions Club of Bangkok, Silom; Sewing Designers Association of America, Bartercard Trade Network and the Indo-Thai Chamber of Commerce. As business associates we proudly count on companies like DHL, FedEx, UPS, TNT, Kbank, Siam Commercial Bank and cloth merchants such as Dormieul, Holland and Sherry, Zegna and others.

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8d) What criteria do I need to access your promotion items for webmasters?
If you wish to place banners and links at your website, you can choose our 6 month promotion for a free shirt or a 1 year promotion to earn a free suit. To be considered, we need the following information:
- Your website url
- Number of hits per month at your website (preferably backed by a third party statistics report)
- Number of unique visitors per month
- Target market of the website
- Proposed locations of the banners and links you would like to place for the promotion.
- Your current online marketing methods used to draw visitors to your website
- A three month web report of statistics if available (this will help greatly in quicker approval)

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Topic 9: Pricing, Costs, How Much?

9a) What is the price of suits, shirts, pants, coats and other custom made-to-measure items?
The price of any item depends on the custom collection, catalogue, and the category you order from. Typically, a two piece suit start at US$ 150 and shirts start at US$ 25.
To obtain a price for any garment, visit one of our collections or catalogues as displayed in the main menu and select the custom piece you wish to have made-to-measure. Prices are displayed alongside each type of garment. The workmanship or construction of the custom clothing remains the same within all the collections. You can visit our Compare Prices page to review a full price list. You will find great discounts in our Sales categories and in our Special Offers page.

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9b) I want to order for my wedding party. Can I get a Discount?
Serving wedding parties is a specialty of ours and we offer significant discounts for multiple wedding party items for the groom and groomsmen. Please visit our Wedding Orders Page for more information and details.

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9c) What discounts are available for bulk orders and wholesale orders?
We offer bulk/wholesale pricing for retailers that have a store or an outlet where clothing can be displayed and sold off the rack in standard sizes. We supply small or large quantities of suits, shirts, pants and other men´s and women´s wear. All our bulk/wholesale production is done to Internationally Accepted Specifications of quality and workmanship, as found in the best department stores and exclusive shops worldwide.
Price Discounts are available on bulk and wholesale orders of clothing. Discount levels are allocated on a case by case basis dependent on total quantities, styles, fabrics, colors, delivery deadlines and other relevant factors. Submit the Bulk/Wholesale Orders form for a competitive price quote for your bulk order.

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9d) What discounts and special prices are available at RavisTailor?
Please visit our Promotions page to review the current promotions and offers we have available at the moment.
You might also want to take advantage of the deep discounts available for orders of multiple pieces of custom clothing at our Special Offers page.

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9e) I have a large group of people that I would like to order for. Can I get a discount? Yes. We offer a competitive prices and substantial discounts on orders placed for a large group of people. For us to offer a price quote for your consideration, kindly Email us the following information -
a. Total number of individuals you wish to place orders for
b. Total number of garments you wish to order
c. Fabric number(s) (as shown in our Fabrics List) page that you wish to order from
d. Styles of the garments you wish to order
e. Garment colors
f. Delivery deadline you need met
g. Proposed date you wish to proceed with the orders
h. Proposed price target you would like to work within
i. Whether you wish us to make a consolidated shipment of the whole order or whether you wish each individual order to be shipped directly to their separate address.
Having this information will allow us to prepare an offer for you.
You can also use our Wedding Orders Form to get great discounts for orders for your wedding party. Styles, fabrics, colors and a host of custom features can be incorporated to personalize the wardrobe for your wedding party.

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9f) Is there a Minimum Order Requirement?
We have minimum order requirement of $200. Generally, we encourage first time clients to place a small order first of one of each item, perhaps one suit and one shirt, to verify that our quality and workmanship are acceptable before placing larger orders. Small orders almost always lead to much larger ones, once our clients experience our quality and service.

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Topic 10: Order Status , Shipping , Turnaround

10a) What is the difference between priority processing and rush processing?
Priority processing establishes a priority status among the orders received in that particular week. Rush processing accelerates production to the front of the line, overtaking weekly orders and backlog to ensure shipping by the committed dispatch date.

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10b) How do I change my shipping address?
Log into MyAccounts and view your current orders. Use the link called, ´Make Changes to This Order´.
Please note that multiple orders cannot be shipped to different addresses. The Billing address will be considered the default address in case of multiple addresses having been supplied.
Post Box Addresses and Military Addresses cannot be used for shipments, street addresses must be provided.
Any changes made to the order must be submitted before the current status of the order makes it difficult or impossible to accommodate the requested changes.
If a shipping address change has been accepted and incorporated into your order, an emailed confirmation will be sent to you.

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10c) How long after an order is shipped do I receive it? Can I choose who to ship with?
All our shipments utilize International Couriers for safe, fast door-to-door delivery. We do not use International Airmail or surface mail. Typically, you will receive the package in 3 to 5 business days from the day the order has been shipped. The carrier we end up using is selected based on time scales, delivery schedules, cost considerations, delivery location and other related issues.
Should multiple orders be in process with different shippers for each order, we will automatically select a courier that is best able to make a consolidated shipment of all your orders.
Delivery: You may be asked to sign a release upon delivery of your order, acknowledging that you have received it. Changes to any garment after it has been received are considered alterations and there may be additional charges. Once custom garments leave our facility, we are not responsible for any further additions, changes, or alterations that may be done by another party.

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10d) What is the estimated dispatch date?
The estimated dispatch date is displayed in MyAccounts. This is the anticipated date your order will ship. In most instances, we are able to ship orders on or before the estimated dispatch date. Any delays are generally a function of fabric availability/delivery issues, a delay in client payment processing, or a longer than anticipated process cycle due to comprehensive feature requests. Delays can also occur if we receive incomplete order details from the client that require an email exchange for clarification. If an order is needed before the estimated dispatch date, Contact us with the order number(s) and the required delivery date so that we can upgrade your order to priority processing for a small fee. Orders may have longer estimated delivery times during the months of April and December due to the annual Thai New Year and Christmas Holidays respectively.

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10e) Are there any countries where you don´t ship orders to?
We do not ship orders to most African countries and some Eastern European and Asian countries without sufficient identity verification documentation. This is to safe guard against fraudulent order placements. Once an order is received and verified by our fraud prevention procedures, we will seek whatever additional documentation is necessary to proceed with the order.

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10f) How do I update my addresses or details prior to my next order or while my current order is being completed?
You do this by logging into MyAccounts and making your changes. If you wish to make a change while your order is being constructed, update your shipping address in the MyAccounts section and send an email confirmation. If you will be at a different address on the date the order is scheduled to be delivered, email the new address and confirm telephone contact numbers. Make sure your customer ID is included in the subject field of your email.
Notification by phone to (66) 81 987 8717 will also help ensure that your address is correctly updated with our logistics department to confirm the new address.

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10g) What are necessary conditions, customs, duties or taxes I must be aware of ?
All orders are subject to third party contract conditions for delivery through reputable third parties transport providers such as FedEx, DHL, TNT and UPS. By purchasing from this website, you agree to allow us to choose the transportation mode and transport carrier we deem most appropriate. The cost of shipping is included in the total price of the order but any import duties are the responsibility of the receiver. Such duties can range from 5% to 20% country-to-country. Check with your local authorities to determine specifics for your port of delivery.
We try to minimize this kind of assessment by declaring the package at replacement value, which helps reduce or eliminate customs duties.

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10h) Where do I send samples for replication or reproduction? Where do I send cloth for CMT work?
To send us samples, follow the instructions outlined below:
a. Please pack the item in as small a package as possible
b. Send it by registered/certified airmail. Please do not use a courier for this as inbound services into Thailand leave a lot to be desired.
If using a courier, there may be import duties to pay.
Declare the package value as under USD 10 to minimize the chances of this happening.
c. Declare the item as old clothing of no commercial value for sampling purposes only
d. Include a note that outlines the order in as much detail as possible
e. Our mailing address is:
Ravis Custom Tailors
Klongtan P O Box 21
Klongtan Post Office
Bangkok 10116
Thailand
Tel: +66 81 987 8717
Tel: +66 81 987 8717 or +66 2 651 7383 or +66 2 651 6663
Email us and let us know when the sample has been sent so we can keep an eye out for it.
More information and instructions on sending fabric or determining how much fabric is needed in a CMT order can be found at this link.
To place CMT orders, please use this form

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10i) Do you ship to the UK, the USA and Australia? What countries do you ship to ? How long does it take to arrive ?
We ship anywhere in the world. All shipments are via international couriers for safe and efficient delivery. It takes ten to twelve working days to complete an order and four to five days for delivery by courier. Priority processing can reduce the delivery time by another day or two if the order is required faster than the standard shipping terms. Shipped orders can be tracked via our online tracker within the MyAccounts section of our Website.

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10j) I submitted my order sometime ago, why is it still pending?
There are several reasons why an order is delayed. All orders are manually screened to make sure the details are correct and to protect both parties from unscrupulous internet activity. During busy times orders are delayed because of excess demand. We will keep you updated via email if delivery dates become extended.

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10k) How do I track my order online?
Track your orders by logging into MyAccounts and clicking the ´track this package´ link in the current orders page. You will only be able to track your order after it has been dispatched by us.

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10l) What are the shipping and handling Charges?
RavisTailor does not charge any shipping and handling charges for orders above USD 200. Smaller orders under USD 200 do have a small micro-shipment charge of USD 15. We use international couriers such as FedEx, UPS, DHL, etc., and delivery is door-to-door. When orders are placed using off-site purchase modes like our auction promotions, emailed promotions. or through other similar promotional means, shipping and handling costs are 20% of the total order calculated on regular prices. A two-piece suit weighs about 1.5-2.5 kg. and a cotton shirt is at least 0.5 kg. Each pair of pants weighs about 0.5-1 kg. The determination of which courier to use rests with us; we try to use the most efficient way to deliver your order.

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10m) What is the difference between priority processing and rush processing?
Priority processing allows customers to have their order executed in the quickest time possible. It generally means a 2-3 day delivery period by International Couriers with special priority delivery instructions. Current rates for the priority processing option are 10% of total order.
Rush processing positions your order ahead of other weekly orders and the current backlog to expedite delivery. Sometimes dispatch is delayed due to fabric availability issues or delays in client payment processing. Delays can be expected if there are features in the garment that go beyond normal production staging, or sometimes they are caused by incomplete order information submitted from the client. This requires us to contact the client for additional order clarification.

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10n) What is the turnaround time at RavisTailors? How about ready-to-wear items?
It takes 7 to 10 working days to complete an order provided all required information is received, and four to six working days for transit.
Orders can be tracked online in MyAccounts after the package has been shipped.

For Re-sellers, swatch sets may take a longer time to complete. Exact schedules for swatch sets to Re-sellers are confirmed on a case by case basis. If fabric swatches or a Digital Catalogue are ordered, they are prepared in three working days and then shipped out. If swatches or the catalogue are shipped by courier, delivery is three to four working days. If airmail is specified, delivery can take four to six weeks. There is no tracking facility for airmailed swatch orders.
We send out constant email updates as soon as orders are processed. To track packages, use the tracking facility provided in MyAccounts under ´current orders´.

In regards to the Estimated Dispatch Date, it is also displayed in MyAccounts where your order is listed. This is the date we expect your order will be shipped by,
depending on the current volume of work. In most instances, we ship orders before the estimated dispatch date.
Ready-to-wear items in-stock items are shipped in 24 to 48 hours.

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Topic 11: Catalogues and Swatches

11a) I want to order a catalogue of custom clothing.
Digital Catalogues can be ordered at this link. All our styles and fabrics are displayed online at our website. We frequently use specifications and published images provided by our clients to determine style guidelines for making custom clothing. We can work with almost any style you want to send us. You can also order fabric swatches to view the range of fabrics we offer at this link. These can be sent to you via airmail at 4-6 week delivery or by courier for a 3-5 day delivery.

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11b) How can I order fabric samples/swatches before submitting an order?
We display fabrics and colors as close to original as possible on our web site. It can be very helpful to order fabric swatches to feel the fabric and see colors before submitting an order. Swatches are shipped within 7 to 10 working days of ordering the request and are delivered by couriers such as FedEx, DHL, UPS etc.
We provide 4 options for ordering swatches and/or style catalogs as follows: -
- Order a swatch kit consisting of up to 95 swatches individually selected by our Master Tailors from the latest collection including an additional 20 swatches of your choice.
When you order this kit you will receive a voucher for USD 10.00 to use with your next order and a Digital Style Catalogue CD. Plus, we will give you a Ravis Custom Tailor style catalog of our most popular styles
- The second option is the availability of up to 95 swatches individually selected by our Master Tailors from the latest inventory. You will also receive a Ravis Custom Tailors style catalog of our most popular styles AND a voucher of USD 10 to use with your next order.
- The third option is a Style Catalogue of our most popular styles for men and women. You will receive the discount coupon worth USD 10 to use with your next order.
- The fourth option is up to 20 Swatches of your choice in fabrics from our current inventory.
Please use this form to submit your swatch or catalogue request.
Fabrics from our Heritage Gold Collection and Deluxe Collection are not stocked in our inventory so we are unable to provide swatch requests for materials in these collections.

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11c) How do I order after getting my swatches/Digital Catalogue?
After receiving your swatches or our digital catalogue, an order can be placed in the following three ways:
a. Online, using our Fabric Search function or the Style Search function linked from the menu to your left and then use the shortcuts provided in ´Search Results´ to submit the order online using our secure online order placement system.
b. By Fax. Print the order sheet included with the Digital Catalogue, fill in the requisite details and fax it to (66) 2 650 0956. We will then post it manually into your account online and process as necessary.
c. By Mail. Print the order sheet and send it by certified, registered airmail to the following address:
Ravis Custom Tailors
Klongtan P O Box 21
Klongtan Post Office
Bangkok 10116
Thailand
Tel: +66 81 987 8717

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11d) What if I have lost a gift certificate, swatch payment redemption coupon etc?
A certificate or swatch payment redemption coupon if lost is not recoverable. It is the receivers responsibility to retain and save the coupon or certificate for subsequent use at our site.
- A certificate or redemption coupon cannot be exchanged for cash.
- A certificate or redemption coupon cannot be utilized or redeemed with an order already placed or with an existing order being worked on at that moment. A redemption can only be made on the next order or subsequent orders.
- No request to recover a lost coupon or gift certificate shall be entertained.
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Topic 12: Other Issues

12a) What is laundering and starching?
Professional laundering is offered by most dry cleaners. Washable garments are professionally washed and pressed. Men´s and women´s shirts are often bleached and starched according to the manufacturers label. Some of the laundering is done with very hot water which may shrink the interfacing or stiffening used in collars and cuffs.
Starching shirts and other cotton or cotton/polyester garments is common. The basic function of starch is to stiffen the garment. However, starch leaves minute crystals in the fiber that can wear out the garment faster than a garment that is not being regularly starched. The choice is appearance versus longer life.

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12b) What is the best method for cleaning my suit?
Dry Cleaning is by definition, cleaning with solvents and using little or no water. The combination of solvents and heat is hard on fabrics and may cause as much wear as actually wearing the garment. Perchlorethylene, the cleaning fluid used by most dry cleaners, is the most effective cleaner for most fabric types. However, "perc", as it is called, is toxic and classified as a hazardous air pollutant by the Clean Air Act. Dry cleaning customers should take their garments out of the plastic bags and air their garments after dry cleaning. Dry cleaning solvent must be distilled to remove greases, oils, waxes and dyes. Poor solvent purity or quality can result in an objectionable odor in the garment and a "graying" of white clothing.

Pressing after cleaning is very common. Most anyone can press wool pants but it takes a skilled professional presser to do a quality job on linen and silk items. Linen can withstand higher heat when ironed, and should be pressed when damp. Silk requires a lower temperature iron and should be steam ironed, preferably with a press cloth. Wool should be pressed with steam and a moderate temperature. Packaging of the cleaned garment is also important. A garment can be cleaned and pressed well but if it is jammed into a small bag, it can become a wrinkled mess. Jamming too many finished and bagged garments onto storage racks will usually wrinkle finished garments.

Finally, develop a dialogue with your dry cleaner. Note the type of stains that you have on your garment and tell the Dry Cleaner when you bring in your clothes. Their pre-spotting helps eliminate stains that could otherwise be heat set after the garment is cleaned. Be an informed and fair consumer. Not all spots can be removed especially they have been pressed into the fabric. Intelligent care of your garments will extend their life considerably.

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12c) Where is www.ravistailor.com located?
We are based in Thailand. We have two stores and a factory in Thailand and supply custom clothing to clients all over the world. More information about us can be found at this link.

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12d) What kind of promotions do you offer? How do I select items from these promotions?
The terms and conditions for our promotions are as follows:
a. All promotion items are personally handpicked by our Master Tailors and selected for each individual order. There is no return, exchange or cash conversion for items received as part of complimentary gift promotions.
b. Since we do not carry complimentary or promotional items in our inventory, we are unable to offer individual selection for these items
c. Promotional items can only be shipped together with a clothing order
d. All complimentary items will be sent with the next clothing order placed with us
e. Promotions can not be combined into one order. For instance, if a wardrobe special is ordered with discount pricing, no additional promotional free offer can be provided.
f. No complimentary or promotional items will be offered in conjunction with wardrobe specials, closeouts items, or special pricing offers
g. No promotional, or complimentary gift items can be exchanged for a different item nor can it be exchanged for cash or cash equivalents

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12e) Do you visit USA, UK, Ireland, Australia, New Zealand or Europe on annual mail order trips? Do you visit my part of the world to take orders or measurements?
We regularly visit the USA and UK to service existing and new clients. Fill in our Road Show Appointment form to allow us to contact you with more information and provide our planned Road Show Visitation Schedule. To make sure that Our Master Tailor visits your city, create a group of friends, family members or business acquaintances that would be interested in working with our Master Tailors.
For a group of at least five clients, special pricing discounts will be offered along with the individual attention you will receive from a Master Tailor.

The best reason to attend one of these roadshows is to understand how you can order custom made clothing that fits much better than off-the-rack clothes at lower prices. You then have your measurements in our database so you can reorder anytime of the year from our online site. Our loyal clients enjoy the convenience of our online presence and avoiding the need to shop retail stores. Our ongoing commitment to serving global clients and numerous customer testimonials customer testimonials is the continuation of three generations of personal service.

Ourmeasurements forms are very comprehensive in creating the perfect guide for making clothes that fit perfectly. As a guide to capturing your measurements, we provide online video tutorials that explain how to take accurate measurements. We seek information regarding ethnic background, favorite sporting and outside activities, special fit preferences, etc., in creating individual information profiles to ensure correct proportioning and fit. The requested information also helps us confirm that certain measurement details are correct. Someone who plays football would be more comfortable in pants that were proportioned with larger than standard front of the thighs and someone who lifts weights would be more comfortable with a wider than usual back for jackets. We do everything possible to accommodate client needs and become an indispensable source of value and convenience.

When an order is received, our Master Tailors review every measurement to check for potential relationships that don´t logically exist in making sure everything is in proportion. To assist in confirming a perfect profile, we request pictures that show front, back and side view images. In paying attention to this kind of detail, we guarantee order placement for custom clothing done online via our website will earn your total satisfaction.

We encourage you to try our online services to avoid having to wait for one of our roadshows to visit your city.
What differentiates us either way is our quality, expertise, workmanship, speed of delivery, and level of custom fit.

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12f) Where are you located ? What is your physical address? Can I have directions to your location?
We are based in Bangkok, Thailand. You can learn more about us by visiting the About Us page where detailed information and contact numbers are provided. Directions and maps to our locations can be found at our Maps page.

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12g) What is RavisTailor´s stand on human rights and conservation?
We have a proud legacy of following international human rights and conservation standards. Our factory operations adhere strictly to “The Kingdom of Thailand’s” minimum working age laws, minimum wage regulations, and maximum working hour dictates. It is our policy to never deploy underage individuals or children at our workshops. Potentially dangerous jobs, i.e., working with sewing machines and needles, are only undertaken by workers over 30 years of age.

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Topic 13: Payments, Credit Cards, Security Issues, Payment Options

13a) How do I checkout? How do I pay for an order?
Once an item has been added to your shopping cart (link to your shopping cart is visible on the top right of your screen), you check out by clicking on the Checkout link. If an order has already been submitted, simply log into MyAccounts, go to the current orders page and use the links supplied to submit order payment. We offer multiple payment choices using our secure layer link with major credit cards like Visa, MasterCard or American Express. You can also use our PayPal payment gateway (PayPal membership not necessary) to submit payment in USD to avoid exchange rate fluctuations. On PayPal, you can use all major credit cards like Visa, MasterCard, AmEx, Discover etc. Payment can also be transferred directly to our bank account. For this, simply email us after the order has been placed requesting account information.

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13b) How secure are payments made to www.ravistailor.com?
Our security protocols and associated underlying technologies exist to protect our clients. The majority of credit card fraud over the Internet involves people e-mailing their credit card account numbers to merchants, or web sites accepting credit cards without using appropriate security protocols. Such potentially insecure data transmission is not used at ravistailor.com. We deploy the latest in Internet and electronic commerce security:
- Operating System Security - ravistailor.com uses a Linux operating system. We utilize strict security procedures (secure users, groups, and passwords).
- Database Encryption - ravistailor.com gathers customers, products, and orders into secure databases with passwords set up at the table level. Individuals typing on the computer on which this database is stored would have to know the database passwords to gain access to the information.
- Encoded Credit Card Slips - Credit card transactions (or slips, as they are known in the banking industry) are encoded using the Secure Socket Layer (SSL) standard, which involves 256-bit encryption. Even if someone were to intercept a transaction, they would not be able to gain access to the information. Your credit card information goes directly to an accredited bank or payment processing system. The number is purged immediately after the transaction is processed, so there is no way for anyone to ever see it.
- Our Privacy Statement: Ravistailor.com does not disclose, sell, give out, or otherwise misuse any information you provide including but not limited to, email addresses, names, previous purchases, addresses, measurements, etc. We value your patronage and will always do our best to keep your information strictly confidential.

Important Notice: ALL orders go through a screening/verification process. We may ask for additional identity verification documents which would be required for order completion. Such documents MUST be supplied via email as an attachment or via fax as required, PRIOR to order shipment. If fraud is detected and verification documents are not supplied, information may be forwarded to country authorities to initiate legal proceedings. Should an order be placed without supporting documents and fraud is not detected, an order will be cancelled and a cancellation charge of 25% will be deducted before a refund is issued to the card. To read more detail on our security procedures check out this link..

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13c) How do I pay for my custom clothing?
We accept the following approved payment methods:
- Credit cards such as Visa, MasterCard, American Express, JCB and all debit cards via our secure online payment systems
- Via PayPal where you can use all major debit and credit and debit cards like Discover, Visa, MasterCard, American Express as well as E-checks
- Fax payment via our FaxForm using Visa, MasterCard and American Express debit and credit cards
- A bank demand BANK DRAFT or Certified Managers Check payable to:-
Ravis Custom Tailors
Klongtan P O Box 21
Klongtan Post Office
Bangkok 10116
Thailand
Tel: +66 81 987 8717
It may take two to three weeks for checks to be received by us, which may delay order processing and shipment
- Bank-to-bank Telex Transfer - if an order is above US$300 in value. Please Email Us for bank information After you have placed your order with us
- Via Western Union only if an order is above US$500 in value and you need to add additional 5% processing and exchange differentials charges to the total
- To submit payment via phone, please call our hotline at (66) 81 987 8717 and have your customer ID and order ID ready in hand when placing your call
All payments are due upon order placement. We do not offer COD terms nor do we offer payment terms after delivery.

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13d) Do you offer credit terms or an installments payment option? Can I make Partial Payments?
For large orders we will accept installment payments. Partial payments are also acceptable. However, orders will only be shipped upon complete payment of all charges. Please contact us if you need additional information.

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13e) What is the cvv/cvc number? What is the 4 digit Amex security number? What is Verified By Visa ?
These are all security features built in to credit card issuing companies to protect card holders and merchants from fraudulent activity. The CVV/CVC number is a three digit number displayed at the back of the card in the same strip as the card holders signature. This is a security measure initiated by Visa and MasterCard. The Amex four digit security number in printed on the front of the card just under the last four digits of the embossed card number. ´Verified-by-Visa is a new security system instigated by Visa Card to guard against online fraud and unscrupulous activity. Cardholders are issued a password that is entered in the appropriate field of the payment submission form. When the password is entered, this information is then verified by Visa International to confirm that the person submitting the payment is indeed the card holder before Visa authenticates the charge card and authorizes funds to be released. If you don´t have a ´Verified-by-Visa´ password, enter your social security number where requested and we will help you obtain the necessary password.

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13f) Why has payment been processed in the Thai Baht and not in USD?
Due to current banking regulations and ongoing currency valuation volatility, the Bank of Thailand no longer permits us to charge in foreign currencies, only in our local currency, the Thai Baht. Your card will be charged in USD after having been converted from the Thai Baht to the USD.

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Topic 14: Product Features

14a) How does a fully-constructed, tailored jacket differ from semi-constructed or unconstructed jackets?
The details and specifications in a custom made jacket vary from tailor to tailor. Generally, a fully constructed, hand-cut, tailor-made jacket is fully lined
with semi-fusing and partial or full canvas, has some shoulder padding and a more structured, cleaner appearance.
As a rule of thumb, unconstructed jackets only have two layers (the cloth itself and the lining) while semi-constructed jackets have three layers (the cloth, the lining and some fusing).
Fully constructed jackets (most jackets are made this way) have four layers, the fabric, the fusing, the canvas, and the inside lining.

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14b) What is a semi-constructed jacket?
Semi-constructed jackets are half or fully lined with some fusing and sometimes have light padding. They contain no canvas. Semi-construction is used in jackets for casual wear; the fabric is usually a wool blend, cotton or linen. As a rule of thumb, unconstructed jackets have only two layers (the cloth itself and the lining); semi constructed jackets have three layers, the cloth, the lining and some fusing.

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14c) What is an unconstructed jacket? What is the difference between a fully constructed and an unconstructed jacket?
An unconstructed men´s or women´s jacket is designed with little or no interfacing, padding, or lining to produce a loose, soft shape for casual summer wear. Generally, the fabric used in an unconstructed jacket is cotton or linen and the colors are mainly light summer colors. Unconstructed jackets can be either half or fully lined, have no fusing or canvas, and have a little padding. The overall look it is soft and flowing. Fully-constructed jackets are always fully lined, have fusing and canvas, generally have normal padding, and have structured, cleaner lines.

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14d) What is the difference between ready-to-wear/off-the-peg, made-to-measure, and full Bespoke Suits?
A true bespoke suit is of greater value than anything else available. They look better, fit better, and last years longer than anything else.
Even so, £2000 [about $4000 USD, at time of writing] is a lot to pay. With modern technology there are acceptable ready-to-wear, manufactured suits being made, starting at only a few hundred pounds. So regardless of your budget, you have a lot of options.

Here is the basic hierarchy to consider:
1. A totally machine made, off-the-peg suit
These cost around £100 to £600. The production systems are simple, a suit is literally made in minutes. With machine-made suits, all manufacturers have pattern designers who create a basic pattern that will be acceptable to most people. So, you are guided by the fit and the feel of the jacket around the neck and shoulders.
If you´re in-between sizes, get the larger size and pay an alteration tailor £20-£30 to have it taken in.
2. Made-to-measure
Not to be confused with ´bespoke´, you are getting the same machine-made suit as number one, but the basic pattern will reflect slight alterations to improve the overall fit. Expect to pay anywhere between £450 to £800. You have more opportunities to personalize the suit, pocket details, style, etc.
The person who measures you may have limited experience; they are only running a tape around you and checking style boxes on the order form.
There are retail chains that offer this service and even proper tailors are out there. A.J. Hewitt, an excellent tailor, is a good example. The principals, Tony Hewitt and Ravi the Tailor (yes, his real name) offer true ´bespoke´ that ranks with the best. They also offer made-to-measure which isn´t the same quality as their best ´bespoke´ suits. They are simply offering the option of only climbing halfway up the sartorial ladder. Ultimately with made-to-measure, your suit is at the mercy of the manufacturer. However, when you have an experienced cutter like Tony or Ravi to measure you, there is far less chance of disappointment.
3. Hand-made, off-the-peg
These are made by hand and the quality is generally very good. But it is still an assembly line, using humans instead of machines to cut from generic, standardized patterns, not your own individual measurements. Yes, the button holes will be hand-sewn, just like ´bespoke´ and your coat will be made with a floating canvas. But the assembly line will still crank out twenty five ´size 40s´ in a single shift. The quality is acceptable and you can order the suit in the morning and be wearing it by the afternoon.

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14e) How are your jackets, pants, and shirts made? What type of construction is done on your jackets, shirts, pants? What are your manufacturing specifications?
Please find our work standards described at this link where you will find our detailed construction criteria.
For jackets and suits, we use a mix of traditional old-world construction and more modern construction techniques. Normally, the panel interlinings in our jackets and coats are a combination of fusion and canvas. The top breast panels are fused with hand-basted canvas interlinings for added support and the lower half of the jacket front is fused for increased flow and drape. We offer full-canvas or full-fusion interlinings on jackets and coats, for a small premium. Only the finest threads are used for hand basting so that the outer shell of jackets and coats seem to float on the body when worn.

We use three types of jacket construction:
Standard construction - Fusing and canvas. The panel interlinings in our suits are a combination of fusing and canvas.The jackets are fused and canvas facings are used for added support. We can prepare either full canvas or fully fused interlinings.
Soft Italian Felt construction - is a substitute for heavier British canvas construction. This is a special construction, designed for a modern, softer look with a single layer of fusing combined with soft felt to give the jacket flow and softness. Ideal for semi-bespoke tailoring.
British Full Canvas construction - This is the traditional method of jacket construction. All inner linings are hand-cut and hand-sewn to the cloth and the canvas is attached to the coat cloth using fine silk thread , giving the jacket the appearance that it floats on the canvas. This construction gives a well built shape to the jacket while providing the drape required for near perfection and is recommended for Classical Bespoke Tailoring. All our shirt collars are top-fused for added durability and stiffness for the highest quality look.

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14f) What sort of religious criteria can be added to custom tailored clothing? As manufacturers, we are able to offer custom made clothing to serve specific religious requirements such as Shatnez Compliance at no additional cost! Our strict quality control mechanisms ensure true adherence to Halacha and other religion-concentric clothing codes. Criteria such as non-mixing of linens and cottons, linens and wool, linens and silks, silks and wool, etc., can be used as necessary for custom orders. We do not use linen fusing and can incorporate only pure organic threads if so required. Upon request, wool padding would not be used with cotton suiting and linen canvas would not be used with wool suiting.

Normally, there is no extra charge for such features. Sometimes these requirements, Contact us are such that additional cost is necessary to confirm to your specifications.
To specify your requirements, use the special requests section of the order placement process. Your specified requirements will then be incorporated into your custom clothing.
Should you wish to search for particular fabrics or combinations of threads used in a fabric, please use the Fabric Search page to do quick searches using fabric composition, weights, climates, patterns and other search parameters.

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14g) Are your jackets hand-basted or fused? Can you do hand-basted canvas fronts? Are shirt collars fused? What about the seams? We use a mix of traditional old-world construction and modern techniques in the construction of our jackets/coats/shirts. Normally, the panel interlinings in our suits and coats are a combination of fusion and canvas. The top-breast panels are fused and incorporate hand-basted canvas interlinings for added support and the lower half of the jacket front is fused for increased flow and drape. We prepare full canvas or full fusion interlinings on jackets and coats if this is desired, for a small premium. Only the finest threads are used for hand-basting so that the outer shell of the jackets and coats seem to float on the body when worn. All our shirt collars are double fused for added durability and stiffness for top of the line construction quality.

Here are some of the TRUE MARKS OF OUR BESPOKE SHIRTS:
- All our shirts are sewn with a minimum of 12 to 18 stitches per inch, depending on the fabric being used, with full single needle construction resulting in strong, flat seams that do not separate.
- Premium interlinings are fused into the collar and cuffs, giving a smooth, even appearance.
- Our shirt collars are hand-cut and hand-turned.
- Built-in stay pockets prevent the removable stay from showing through the fabric.
- Sleeve-to-cuff pleating gives balance to the sleeves.
- Pearl coated Mylar buttons are cross stitched for extra strength.
- Hand-finishing and hand-pressing insure individual attention to each shirt.

Our clothes are made to wear well and look good for years. Off-the-rack clothing is made close to the edge in every seam; our custom clothing is made with large margins. If needed, pant waists can be increased by three inches and jackets can be expanded by three to four inches. We maintain a high standard of QUALITY AND WORKMANSHIP with dedication to customer service.
Click Here
to find out more about our standards of custom garment construction.

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14h) What are RavisTailor.com production standards? We maintain a high standard of QUALITY AND WORKMANSHIP with dedication to customer service. Click Here to find out more about our standards.

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14i) How do I know if RavisTailor is for me? Read how previous customers have described our service and the quality of clothing they have received. Or, feel free to make your own comments. We may even post your comments on RavisTailor.com.

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14j) What about big and tall sizes? We do not charge extra for preparing large sizes? The prices you see here are the prices for everyone, regardless of size. Please email us for details.

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14k) Can I order for others such as family? Yes. You just need to set up individual measurement profiles in the ´My Accounts´ tab and give each new profile a proper name. Please visit MyAccounts to complete this process.

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Topic 15: MyAccount Section

15a) I am not able to access my order in the ´MyAccounts´ link of your website.
There are generally two reasons why you are not able to view your order:
a. The order may have been moved to the order history page. Use the link on the left side of ´MyAccounts´ to access the order history page.
b. You may be using a different email address to access your account; sometimes two email addresses get entered over time. Confirm the email you used to place the order and log in with that address. It will serve you well to establish a single email address linked to your account.
Should you still have trouble accessing your account, use the Trouble Shoot to let us know.

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15b) Why does the system ask for a password in ´MyAccounts´? I have forgotten the password. I can´t log into my account.
The password feature protects your account from unauthorized access. If you have forgotten your password,
type in your email address and use the links provided to have the password sent to the email you originally registered with.
If you have never set up a password simply go to your account, type in your email address and when asked for a password, type in the one you wish to use.

If you are inputting the correct password but the system still keeps asking for it, you may have ´cookies´ disabled on your computer. When you enter a password, a ´session cookie´ is used to store that information so the site knows who is trying to access the account and whether or not access should be granted. Reset your browser to allow ´cookies´ to run. If you are running a firewall, allow it to ´trust´ our site and then log back into MyAccounts. If you are still having trouble, please use the Trouble Shoot page provided for that purpose.

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15c) What is the ´MyAccounts´ feature?
This unique element of our website is a one-stop shop where you can view the status of your current order and your order history, and set up different measurements profiles to use when placing orders for members of your family or friends. You can view all your measurement profiles and update them when necessary. Measurement profiles can be added before you ever place your first order.

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15d) How do I track the status of my order online?
Log into MyAccounts and view the status in your current orders page.

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15e) How do I set up an account ?
Log into MyAccounts and set up your billing and shipping information, email address and contact details. You will immediately be assigned a Customer ID as soon as you type in your email address. This ID should be used with all communications to ensure efficiency and accuracy.

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15f) What does the status, ´QC´ mean?
QC stands for Inspecting and Quality Checking. This occurs just prior to order shipment. QC entails a final check on the fabric, style, measurements and related specifications to make sure the order adheres to your exact requirements. We consider the design of custom clothing to be an art form and the built-in quality of every garment reflects a passionate attention to detail.
From perfectly matched patterns, to well proportioned and fitted linings, to the finest trimmings available, no detail is overlooked.
Each garment is carefully inspected by our expert staff to ensure total customer satisfaction.

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15g) What is ´Order Pending´ in my account?
This means your order has been selected for manual screening and payment processing. You will receive a digital receipt by email indicating payment has been processed and that order status has been updated.

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15h) What is ´Order Processing´ in my account?
Order Processing means we are in the stage of sourcing the fabrics, confirming all the information provided is complete and reviewing all the other details to ensure your custom order is as specified. This is the stage where you may receive an email asking for updates or selective confirmation regarding details of the order.

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15i) What is ´Order Sourcing´ in my account?
Order Sourcing indicates that we are waiting for fabric delivery. Sometimes due to seasonal fluctuations or if a fabric is not currently in our inventory, the status of sourcing can stretch a few extra days. As soon as that status changes, we email you confirmation.

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15j) What is ´Order Executing´ in my account?
Order Executing means the order has reached the stage where the materials are being constructed for final completion.

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15k) What does ´Awaiting Info´ in my account mean?
This indicates we have made a request for an update or for detail confirmation. Generally, the requested information is necessary to complete the order.

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15l) What does ´Order Completing´ mean?
Order Completing means the order has reached the completion stage in preparation for final inspection and shipping.

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15m) What does ´Order Shipped´ in my account indicate?
This means the order has been dispatched from our workshops to a logistics supplier for shipment to the destination location. It may take a few hours before you can begin tracking the package in real time online.

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Topic 16: CMT Orders - Your Fabric, Our Creations

16a) What are CMT orders? How much do they cost?
CMT stands for CUT, MAKE, TRIM and is the industry term used to describe the shipment of cloth to us to custom make a preferred style, made-to-measure item to your specifications.
Details for the costs and the order process for CMT can be viewed at this link.
Contact us us for the answer to any related questions you may have. More information and instructions on sending fabric, fabric quantity needed, etc., can be found at this link.
To check out the full chart of fabric quantity requirements, click on the CMT instructions link under the category Specials/Events/Deals on this page.

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16b) Can I send you the cloth for my custom garments ?
We can custom make clothing including suits, shirts and pants using fabric you send to us. This is called CMT (Cut Make Trim) work. To place CMT orders, use this form. To check out the full chart of fabric quantity requirements, click on the CMT instructions link under the category Specials/Events/Deals on this page . To send the fabric to us after placing the CMT order at the above link, follow the instructions outlined below:
- Pack the materials in as small a package as possible and include your name, address, telephone number, order number and Customer ID. The customer ID is the number you find in the subject field of any email received from us or it is listed in ´MyAccounts.
- Send it by registered/certified airmail. Do not use a courier for this as inbound services into Thailand are not always dependable.
- Put a low value on the package, under USD 5 to USD 15 for example. Declare the item as old cloth of no commercial value for sampling purposes only.
Include a note in the package that outlines the order in as much detail as possible and include any special requests for any of the items. These options are provide at a small premium which will be added to your order total.

Our Mailing address is:
Ravis Custom Tailors
Klongtan P O Box 21
Klongtan Post Office
Bangkok 10116
Thailand
Tel: +66 81 987 8717

Contact us and let us know when the fabric has been sent so we can keep an eye out for it.
You need to submit your measurements by setting up a ´measurements profile´. Log into ´MyAccounts´on our website.
Alternatively, you can include well fitting sample garments in the package for replication of measurements and styles.

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16c) How do I determine how much fabric to send you for a specific type of clothing I want made; suit, pants, shirt, vest, etc.?
Go to the CMT Orders Page and look for the reference to Important Note: After you place your CMT order, kindly follow the instructions outlined at this link. Click that link to access a series of charts to help you determine how much material you need for your specific body configuration for all our products. These charts will give you the guidance you need. When you reference this material and have any questions, please email us.

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Topic 17: Troubleshoot, Technical Issues

17a) What are alpha characters?
Non-alphabetic characters that are used in the same way letters are used. These characters are neither letters or numbers. For example hash(#), dollar sign ($), the @ sign(at), and the plus sign (+), etc., are all alpha characters. These should not be used at our website in any of the address or name fields. Use them only in the comments or message fields.

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17b) How can I remove an item from my shopping cart? How do I edit items in my shopping cart? How do I change items in my order?
If you are in the process of placing an order, you will see a shopping cart icon on the top right. If you don´t see this icon, it is likely you have not added anything to the cart of your browse ´cookies´ may be disabled. You must enable ´cookies´ to allow the website to work properly.
When you click on the shopping cart icon, all the items in your order should appear:
a. You will then see links to remove, edit, delete, or change quantities or add items to your shopping cart.
b. If you have already placed an order, click MyAccount. When you log into your account, you will be able to see all your current orders.
c. Click on the ´View Details´ link associated with a current order under production, to edit or change items in that order. You can also use the ´Make Changes to This Order´ link provided in your account.
d. Some items in your order may be too far into production to make any changes. For example, changes in fabric, style or color may not be possible since cloth is ordered and cut within a day or so of an order being placed and processed.
e. Some changes may mean an additional charges will apply.

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17c) I dont see my order in MyAccounts. Where did it go? Do you still have it?
There are generally two reasons why you are not able to view your order in ´MyAccounts´.
a. The order may have been moved to the order history page. Use the link on the left side of ´MyAccounts´ to access the order history page to look for your order.
b. You may be using a different email address to access your account. Sometimes two email addresses are used over time. Confirm the email you used to place the order and log in with that address. It will serve you well to establish a single email address linked to your account.
Should you still have trouble accessing your account, use the Trouble Shoot to let us know.

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17d) When I submit sizes, it shows an - Out Of Range - Error.
This error message flags potential discrepancies in your measurements submission, based on logical proportion relationships that don´t normally apply. Our patented ´Measurement Program´ consists of protocols designed to catch these discrepancies so we can manually screen the sizes prior to completing the order. Discrepancies that this program catches, alerts us to a potential problem. If you confirm that the measurements you submitted are correct, you do not need to do anything else. Just confirm that back to us.
Our patented program is just the first step in the screening processes we use for ensuring a perfectly custom made garment, made to your specifications. We also have cross referencing sizes that we use as an overlay sizing when executing orders.

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17e) It keeps asking for the password to MyAccounts? I do not have/have forgotten the password. What should I do?
The password feature protects your account from unauthorized access. If you have forgotten your password,
type in your email address and use the links provided to have the password sent to the email you originally registered with us.
If you have never set up a password simply go to your account, type in your email address and when asked for a password, type in the one you wish to use.

If you are inputting the correct password but the system still keeps asking for it, you may have cookies disabled on your computer. When you enter a password, a session cookie is used to store that information so the site knows who is trying to access the account and whether or not access should. Reset your browser to allow cookies. If you are running a firewall, allow it to ´trust´ our site and then log back into the MyAccounts section at our website at this link.
If you are still having trouble, please use the Trouble Shoot page provided for that purpose.

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17f) I am unable to log into MyAccounts. What should I do?
The password feature protects your account from unauthorized access. If you have forgotten your password,
type in your email address and use the links provided to have the password sent to the email you originally registered with us.
If you have never set up a password simply go to your account, type in your email address and when asked for a password, type one in you wish to use.

If you are inputting the correct password but the system still keeps asking for it, you may have cookies disabled on your computer. When you enter a password, a session cookie is used to store that information so the site knows who is trying to access the account and whether or not access should be granted. Reset your browser to allow cookies. If you are running a firewall, allow it to ´trust´ our site and then log back into the ´MyAccounts´ section of our website at this link.
If you are still having trouble, please use the Trouble Shoot page provided for that purpose.

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17g) I updated my measurements online. Why are the changes not showing?
In the email confirming that we have received your size changes update, we also confirm that changes will not be reflected as ´measurements used´ in the measurements profile till the time your next order is being processed. This helps us avoid confusion and multiple size change errors. Once the changes have been submitted and you have received the confirming email, DO NOT resubmit these changes. The new sizes will be reflected in the measurements profile once they have been used in a future order. Meanwhile, proceed with placing your next order with full confidence that we have your updated measurements on file.

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17h) I can´t view the video tutorials in the measurements forms. I am having trouble submitting sizes. The form is not going through. Help.
The video clips are accessed by clicking on the camera icon next to the name of each measurement field. You will need Windows Media player program or Quik Time media player installed on your computer to be able to view these clips. It is possible that you are viewing the printable and downloadable measurements form rather than the online submission form.
The printable form does not have video tutorials as it is assumed that the form will be used to fill in the measurements by a professional taking the sizes and hence a tutorial is not required.
To view the submission form, log into the ´MyAccounts´ and click the set-up measurements profile link.

If you are still having trouble consider the following possibilities:
a. The security settings on your browser are set at a high level which is preventing you from viewing the page. In this case, reset it to default levels.
b. The cookies are disabled on the browser.
c. The java script is disabled on your machine. Re-enable it or set all the browser settings to default.
d. A cookie on your computer is corrupted. Visit This Link first and then proceed to submit the measurements or resubmit the complete order.

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17i) I am unable to submit an online order. What should I do?
There are several things that could be holding up acceptance of your order. It may be that ´cookies´ are disabled on your computer or you may be part of a local network that prevents pages from showing on your computer. It is possible that a script is corrupted, preventing you from completing the transaction. Try emailing us the following order information emailed to us along with credit card information to process payment so we can manually input your order. We will then confirm the order onto your online profile, visible in the ´MyAccounts´ section of our website.
If you are unable to submit your measurements, email us a request for Measurements Forms so you can fill them out and fax or email them back to us.

For manual order placement, email us the following details:
- Items you wish to order
- The style number for each item
- The fabric number for each item
- The color for each item
- Any special requests for any of the custom pieces being ordered
- Measurements can be submitted by logging into ´MyAccounts´ and using the links on the left menu. Or, you can fax us the measurement form which can be printed out and filled in. Our fax number is (66) 2 650 0956 where you would need to dial the international access code (it is 011 in the USA) and then the rest of the number. Include your name, email address, and Customer ID number.

Email us the following credit card information so that we can process payment.
- The card number
- The name on the card
- The expiration date
- Shipping address
- billing address
- CVV number(the three digit number in reverse italics on the back of the card).
Having all the pertinent information as detailed above, will allow us to manually enter your order and process it accordingly.

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Topic 18: Measurements, Sizes, How to? When ? What ?

18a) What does NOA mean?
NOA means NO Allowance or it designates Finished Sizes. When measurements are submitted, they are deemed to have been taken directly from the body (unless otherwise specified) and so require additional allowances from 0.5 inches to 6 inches for comfort and freedom of movement. These amount of these allowances depends on the overall size of the wearer and the type of garment chosen. The acronym NOA signifies that a particular number is the Finished Measurement for the relevant dimension/area of the garment. A waist measurement of 42 NOA for pants means that the actual waist of the pants has been finished at 42 inches.
When you see a NOA size in your measurements portfolio, this indicates that the finished size of the relevant dimension is the indicated number. If you wish to denote that a certain part of the garment should be finished at XYZ inches, simply add the term NOA at the end of that number.
Alternatively you can use the lower portion of the measurements forms to indicate which of the measurements have been taken from a garment (and not from the body) so that the finished garment we construct has the same finished size as the garment you measured from.
If all the measurements you submit are taken from a garment that fits you well, simply use the Send Sizes to Copy forms linked from the Measurements Portfolio in your account.

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18b) Can I send in sizes that I want copied from a garment that fits me well?
Yes. Log into the MyAccounts section and use the "Send Sizes to Copy" link on the left of the page to submit finished sizes taken from garments that fit you well.
Detailed instructions on what measurements are to be taken and how to take them are provided.

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18c) When I submit sizes, it shows an ´out of range´ error. What does that mean?
This error message flags potential discrepancies in your measurements submission, based on logical proportion relationships that don´t normally apply. Our patented ´Measurement Program´ consists of protocols designed to catch these discrepancies so we can manually screen the sizes prior to completing the order. A discrepancy which the program catches alerts us to a potential problem. If you confirm that the measurements you submitted are correct, you need not do anything else. Just confirm that back to us.
Our patented program is just the first step in the screening processes we use for ensuring a perfectly fit, custom-made garment made to your specifications. We also have cross referencing size techniques that we use when executing your orders.

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18d) I am afraid to take sizes. Can I send measurements off a garment I am happy with?
We can certainly work from measurements you submit from a finished shirt, suit or pants according to the list below. However, DO NOT submit these measurements as part of your measurements profile, as the profile will assumed these are off-the-body sizes resulting in the finished sizes being different due to allowances for comfort we always make.
The sizes in this list should be emailed to us or this list can be printed out and faxed to us at (66) 2 650 0956.

The sizes used for replicating your own clothing are as follows:

For Shirts
a. The length of the front of the shirt taken from the side of the collar at the fold down to the edge of the shirt.
b. The length of the back of the shirt taken from the bottom of the collar seam at the center of the back to the edge of the shirt.
c. Chest circumference at the point where the arm holes join the torso taken across the front and doubled for full circumference.
Take the measurement across the front of the chest and across the back on the same line and indicate each measurement separately.
d. Stomach circumference at the middle of the shirt where it tapers to its narrowest.
Take the measurement across the front of the stomach/waist and the back on the same line, separately.
e. Hips circumference at the bottom of the shirt at the highest point of the shirt tails.
The front half and the back half of the hips should be taken separately.
f. Shoulder width from where the shoulder and sleeve seams join on one side to the other.
g. Sleeve length from the point where shoulder and sleeve join to the lowest edge of the cuffs.
h. Neck circumference from center of button to center of button hole.
i. Cuff circumference from center of button to center of button hole as well as from one outer edge of the cuff to the other outer edge of the cuff.
j. The height of the cuffs.
k. The length of the collar points in front. The height of the collar at the back.
l. The height of the collar band in the front where it buttons. The height of the collar band at the back.
m. The width of the back yoke where the joint across the back joins from one arm to the other.
n. The under arm length where the armhole and chest join to the edge of the cuff under the sleeves.
o. The distance of collar and first button and the distance of first and second button. The total number of buttons on the shirt.

B - For pants and trousers:
a. Waist circumference for the pants by measuring the outside of the waistband from the center of the hook or button to the center of the clasp or buttonhole.
b. Hips circumference at the widest part of the buttocks. If the pants are pleated, make sure the pleats are fully opened. Typically, the widest part of the hips is around an inch above or exactly at the end of the zipper placket.
c. Out seam length taken from the top of the waist band to the lowest edge of the pants cuffs down the side of the pants taken along the seam. Lay the pants flat and make sure there are no folds or creases along the length. It helps to pull the pants absolutely flat by stretching them a bit along the length.
d. U crotch taken from the top of the waistband in front, down between the legs and up to the top of the waist band at the back. Take three measurements for the U crotch, one is the overall length of the U, next is the distance from the top of the waistband in front to the joint of the U below the zipper placket, and the third is from the top of the waistband at the back down to the joint of the U between the legs. The second and third measurements should add up to the first measurement forthe full U crotch length.
e. Thighs and Legs - finished size to be taken off another pair of pants that fit well and taken around 2 inches below the U crutch joint. This is the circumference of the legs at the widest part. The leg measurements should be taken as multiple measurements each around 3 to 4 inches below the other. That is, take the circumference measurement at exactly the point where the U crotch and the thighs join, then measure 4 inches down and take them again, then measure another four inches down and take them again and so on, all the way to the bottom of the pants. This way, essentially, we would have the finished pants legs circumference from the U crotch/top of the thighs all the way down to the leg at 3 to 4 inch intervals. This will provide the proper silhouette of the pants legs to ensure perfect replication.
f. Bottoms- is the circumference of the pants at the cuffs and can be taken off another well fitting pair of pants.

C - For Jackets
a. The length of the jacket in front taken from where the shoulder and neck join on the top of the shoulder to the lowest point in front, taken vertically down the length and typically along the nearer end of the front pockets.
b. The length of the jacket at the back taken from where the back center seam joins the collar to the lowest edge at the back, typically along the center seam.
c. Chest circumference at the point where the armhole joins the torso. Individual measurement of each of the typically six panels on the jacket will help greatly in correct proportioning. The first is from the edge of the lapel fold (where it folds back onto the chest to create the lapel) to the seam in front just under the arm. The second is from the first seam under the arm in front to the second seam at the back under the arm. The third is from the second seam under the arm at the back to the center seam in the middle of the back. The other three are the same on the other side and should typically equal the corresponding measurements of the opposite side.
d. Stomach circumference at the middle of the jacket where it tapers to its narrowest. This is typically at the first button on a two-button jacket and the second or third button of a three or four button jacket. Here too, measurements of all the six panels as described in point 3 above will help.
e. Hips circumference at the bottom of the jacket at the widest point - typically just under the pocket flaps or just at the middle of the back vents. Again, the six-panel dimension will help.
f. Shoulder width from where the shoulder and sleeve seams join on one side to the other on the top of the sleeves.
g. Sleeve length from the point where shoulder and sleeve join to the lowest edge of the cuffs.
h. Half shoulder - from where the shoulder seam joins the side of the neck to where the seam joins the top of the sleeve.
i. Bicep circumference is taken at the top of the sleeves at its widest part - typically at the same level as the bottom of the armhole where it joins the sleeves.
j. The armhole circumference.
k. The length of the sleeve from where it joins the top of the shoulder to the edge of the cuff.
l. The width of the back yoke where the joint across the back joins from one arm to the other.
m. The under arm length where the armhole and chest joins the sleeve to the edge of the cuff under the sleeves.
n. The distance of side of the neck and first button and the distance of first and second button and the total number of buttons on the jacket. This tells us the gorge or button depth and is taken from the side of the neck where neck and shoulder join to the location of the first button.
o. Your height.
p. Chest circumference off the body.
q. Stomach circumference off the body.
r. Hips circumference off the body.
s. Shoulder width off the body.
t. Sleeve length that you would like (as opposed to the ready to wear sleeve lengths).
u. Neck circumference off the body.
v. Back width taken from the sample where the arm joins the back on one side at the point where the back seam of the sleeve hits the back of the sample jacket to where the back and arm joins on the other side at a corresponding location.
w. The lower back taken from the sample jacket where the side seams under the arm joins the sleeves and back to the corresponding point on the opposite side.
x. Width of the lapels at their widest point.

D - For vests:
a. Front length from top of shoulder where it meets the neck to the tip of the V at the bottom.
b. Back length from the nape of the neck at the back to the edge of the vest/waistcoat. Typically 2 to 3 inches below waistline.
c. Chest for men and upper bosom for women and also bosom for women at the level of the nipples taken from the sample vest.
d. Stomach for men/narrowest part of the torso for women taken from the sample vest.
e. Hips for men/stomach for women at the navel level and hips for women at the widest part.
f. Shoulders from one end to the other on top of the armholes.
g. Neck circumference taken off the body.
h. Armhole for women off the body and circumference of the armhole desired on the vest.
i. Gorge of the buttons taken from the side of the neck where neck and shoulder seam join, down the front to the location of the first button.
j. Half shoulder, taken from the sample vest, where the side of the neck and the shoulder seam join to the top of the armhole along the top shoulder seam.

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18e) What is difference between "Slim or Snug Fit", "Athletic Cut" and "Full Fit"?
A snug fit garment fits close to the body and projects a natural shape. This is similar to the cut and shape of jackets made in the 50´s and 60´s, and very British in proportion with narrower armholes and sleeves. This is more suited to very slim and lanky physiques.
An athletic fit is wider at the shoulders and has more of an hourglass shape, narrowing at the waist for a steeper drop and then following the curvature of the hips, more like an Italian Cut. This is perfect for the well built body and the accent to the shoulders is well suited to those with wider shoulders and narrower, tighter torsos.
A full cut drapes and flows and minimizes the curves of the body. This is ideal for larger more substantial or Big and Tall physiques.

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18f) How do I send digital images to use with my order?
Digital images you send to use with your order should be in the following format:
- Full frontal
- Full back
- Full left profile and full right profile
The images should be taken against a dark background for good contrast. They can be taken with very light clothes on or simply wearing undergarments. Each image should be no larger than 100 kb. and the images should be in the JPEG format that ends in the extension .jpg. Since multiple images will probably be sent, it is advisable to zip them before transmission to make for easier uploads and downloads.
Please send the images as attachments addressed to customerservice@ravistailor.com and remember to include the following information in the subject field and body of the message along with the attachment(s):
- Your full name
- Your customer ID
- Your order number if you have already submitted your order. This is not necessary if an order that has not been submitted, though you MUST REMEMBER to confirm that your images have been sent to us in the special request section of the order placement process when the order is submitted.
- Remember to use the same email address when sending images that you use for your order placement.
Contact us should you have additional questions regarding this subject.

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18g) How do I best take sizes, with clothes on or without any clothes on? Should I submit sizes in centimeters or Inches ?
Our measurement form is very comprehensive and can be used for all garments, including shirts, suits, pants, etc. Two-dimensional measurements such as lengths, shoulder widths, etc, can be taken off another piece of clothing that fits well but three-dimensional measurements such as chest circumference, stomach, etc., should be taken off the body. Use the video tutorials on the forms to see how to best take measurements. When taking Measurements, we recommend a thin shirt or t-shirt and a well fitting pair of pants. Tights, jogging suits, corsets or any other body binding garments should not be worn when taking the sizes.
For pant and trouser measurements, wear items that sit exactly where you want your custom pants to sit. The position of the pants waist band on the waist at the sides, front and back are required when taking measurements for the pants out seam and U-crotch.
Jacket lengths do not necessarily have to conform to the second knuckle on the thumb since some people have long arms and others short arms as well as styles selected also make a difference. Ideally, the standard jacket length should cover at least the buttocks at the back and the crotch in the front.
Do not take the neck size of shirts tightly or snugly. Make sure a finger is kept between the tape and the body for comfort allowance for the collar. We do not recommend using off the rack measurements for custom clothing. When submitting shirt sleeve lengths, measure sleeve length from the top of the shoulder to the length desired as is described in the measurements forms.
For your convenience, each measurement requirement for each kind of garment is indicated using icons so that those minimal sizes get submitted as necessary.

Measurements can be submitted in centimeters or in inches. Since our legacy is the traditional school of tailoring, we work with inches and should sizes be submitted in centimeters we will convert them to inches. So, it is safe to say that we prefer inches. Remember to select the appropriate unit of measurement when submitting the sizes.

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18h) I have a shirt I want sizes taken from. How is this accomplished?
Please contact us with the following shirt sizes taken from your perfect fitting shirt:
a. The length of the shirt in front
b. The length of the shirt in the back
c. Chest circumference at the point where the arm hole joins the torso.
Take the measurement across the front of the chest and across the back in the same line separately and email us the separate measurements.
d. Stomach circumference at the middle of the shirt where it tapers to its narrowest.
Take the measurement across the front of the stomach/waist and the back in the same line, separately please.
e. Hips circumference at the bottom of the shirt at the highest point of the tails and once again, the front half and the back half should be taken seperately
f. Shoulder width from where the shoulder and sleeve seams join on one side to the other
g. Sleeve length from the point where shoulder and sleeve join to the lowest edge of the cuffs
h. Neck circumference from center of button to center of button hole.
i. Cuff circumference from center of button to center of button hole as well as from one outer edge of the cuff to the other outer edge of the cuff.
j. The height of the cuffs
k. The length of the collar points in front, the height of the collar at the back and the height of the collar band in the front and in the back.
l. The width of the back yoke where the joint across the back joins from one arm to the other
m. The under arm length where the armhole and chest join to the edge of the cuff under the sleeves.
n. The distance of collar and first button and the distance of first and second button and the total number of buttons on the shirt.
o. The style of the collar and the cuffs.
Having these measurements will help us correctly custom make the shirt to your exact specifications. Your order can then be placed via our website in the normal manner.

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18i) I have existing garments that I want to send to you for replicating sizes off of. How do I do this?
We can custom make shirts and suits to specifications provided by you in the form of a sample. There is no extra charge for this service. To send the sample to us, follow the instructions outlined below:
a. Please pack the item in as small a package as possible and remember to include your full name, email address and Customer ID in the package of samples.
b. Send it by registered/certified airmail.
Please do not use a courier for this as inbound services into Thailand leave a lot to be desired. If using a courier, please be aware that there may be import duties on our side that would need to be cleared and our recommendation would be to declare the package as under USD 10 to minimize the chances for this happening.
c. Declare the item as old clothing of no commercial value for sampling purposes only
d. Include a note in the package that outlines the order in as much detail as possible.
e. our mailing address is:
Ravis Custom Tailors
Klongtan P O Box 21
Klongtan Post Office
Bangkok 10116
Thailand
Tel: +66 81 987 8717
f. email us and let us know when the sample has been sent so we can keep an eye out for it.
You would not need to submit measurements since we would have a sample to replicate.
We will email you as soon as the package has been received and once the order has been completed and dispatched.
Let us know if we should retain the old sample for future orders or whether we should send it back to you.

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18j) When, how, and where do I submit my measurements?
There are two ways measurements can be submitted. You can set up a measurements profile at our website by logging into your account and setting up a profile before placing the order. The other way is to place the order and on the last page, after the order is submitted, you will find a link for submitting your measurements. You can also print out our Measurements Forms and fax them to us at +66 2 650 0956 before or after an order has been placed. Remember to include your name, email address and Customer ID number with the faxed documents.

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18k) Can you do Large loose shirts ? Can you to Tight or fitted Shirts ? Loose baggy slacks? Snug fit pants ? Boxy Jackets?
Since we are custom tailors, we custom make to measure any style of large loose shirts, tight shirts, fitted shirts, loose baggy slacks, snug fit pants, boxy Jackets or any other particular fit request you submit. As with any garment request, you need to submit a complete set of measurements, using the measurements forms that can be accessed by logging into the MyAccounts section.

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18l) Can you do big and tall size custom clothing?
Yes. We are very experienced in working with very large sizes and helping these clients get the most comfortable, best fit possible. There is no extra charge for big and tall sizes.

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18m) Can you do wheelchair fit ? I have physical limitations, can you accomodate them in my custom clothing?
We certainly can. We will make garments that look good and are comfortable in a wheelchair or that accommodate any physical limitations. We would require images of you sitting in the wheel chair front and back as well as standing(if possible) with front, back and side views. If possible, we prefer images of the full body front, back and side silhouettes clearly showing any physical limitations so that the custom clothing can be proportioned accordingly.This helps us construct the garments correctly with the proper balance of appearance and comfort. Send them as a JPEG format that ends in the extension .jpg with each one no larger than 50 kb. in size. If sending multiple images, ensure the images are zipped before transmission to make for easier uploads and downloads.
Ensure that measurements are taken off the body when not in the wheelchair as well as when in the wheel chair. This is important for three dimensional measurements such as chest, stomach, waist and hip circumferences as well as the front chest and back measurements.
When setting up a profile, set up the profile using off the body, out of the chair measurements. The separate set in the wheel chair should be emailed to us separately.

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18n) What if I am an odd size with parts of my physique larger or smaller than other parts of my physique? Such as, what if my neck is a lot larger than the rest of my proportions or what if my sleeves are extra short compared to the rest of me?
Since we are Custom Tailors, we are able make to measure each garment to specifications provided for each individual client. It is a matter of pride that we are able to custom fit any piece of clothing to suit the physical properties of any individual. Every piece of clothing we make is unique from the selection of the style, to the selection of the fabric and color. We can accommodate custom requests to the actual cutting and finishing of any garment. So, we are able to custom make the item to the sizes provided independent to how consistent or inconsistent they may be with other physical characteristics.

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18o) Can I update the measurements after the order has been delivered?
Yes, measurements can be easily updated after an order has been delivered. Either fill in and submit the measurements feedback form you receive a few days after order dispatch or log into your account and update your measurements profile.

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18p) I am an existing client but do not see my measurements profile in my account. Do you have all my measurements? If so, why is it not shown?
If you have ordered from us, we have your measurements on file. You can contact us for a confirmation. There are a few reasons why the measurements may not be showing in your account. The most likely reason is that although you have used our web services before, you may have used a previous version of our website and the measurements you submitted were not added to the database. For convenience purposes we only update an online measurements profile once an order has been received via this new version of our website. The measurements will then be updated as we process your order. A second reason why the measurements may not displayed in your profile is that we had used a sample sent by you for replication. The measurements of the sample are therefore not updated in your online database even though we do have on file the sample´s sizes.

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18q) How can I be sure of a perfect fit?
We have been online for three years but have been customizing apparel for three generations. So, we have a great deal of experience and knowledge in custom tailoring business. About half our online clients are repeat customers who were once new to us online. The only time we have problems delivering a perfect fit is when incomplete or incorrect information is sent to us. We sometimes receive suits that need very small adjustments to fully meet client expectations, usually in the form of adjustments to waist size, shorter sleeves, a longer inseam, etc.
We are very confident that our tailoring will meet any and all expectations.

When an order is delivered we are always accessible from anywhere in the world by email to resolve any issues you have with the quality of our work. We have never received a complaint about the timeliness of our response. It may take us 18 to 24 hours to reply to your inquiry, but we are fully committed to doing whatever it takes to get the order right. Our customer testimonials attest to the quality of our work.
Should there be any adjustments needed we will work with you to get them done as quickly as possible. We only ask that you cover shipping expenses associated with getting work completed.

One of the reasons we get the order right on a very consistent basis is the integrity of our measurement forms. They are comprehensive and exacting in getting your measurements accurately and efficiently. online. Apart from our measurement forms, we provide online video tutorials that assist you in taking the measurements. Clicking on the camera icon will play the short video for each measurement.

When we receive measurements, we review them carefully to check for possible errors and discrepancies. When we identify issues that need clarification or review, we get back to the client and ask for confirmation of certain measurements and supply guidelines for what we think certain proportions should be. Only after receiving confirmation do we complete the order. We request that clients send us front, back and side view images to serve as one more indication of a correct measurement profile.

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18r) Can you use off the rack sizes? Can I submit Ready to Wear sizes for my custom clothing?
Although we can work with off the rack measurements for shirts and suits we must indicate that having pieces custom made-to-measure using off the rack measurements totally defeats the value added purpose of customization. If we make garments using ready made sizes, you would likely face issues with the fit as you currently do with off-the-rack products. Each production house has its own off-the-rack sizing specifications which vary from label to label. You will get greater quality and a much better fit when you submit our comprehensive measurements forms and order specific materials and styles that serve you best. We recommend that the measurements forms, accessible from within the MyAccounts section of our website be used to the fullest extent possible, to ensure perfect fit in your custom clothing.

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18s) What are the minimal size requirements for Shirts ? Jackets ? Pants ? Vests ?
We suggest you submit the following minimal size requirements via our measurements forms:
For Shirts, they are:
a. your height
b. chest circumference off the body
c. stomach circumference off the body
d. hips circumference off the body
e. shoulder width off the body
f. sleeve length
g. neck circumference off the body

For Pants and trousers, they are:
a. waist circumference for the pants taken off the body at exactly the position on the waist that the pants are to be worn
b. hips circumference at the widest part of the buttocks taken off the body and with one finger between the body and the tape.
c. Out seam length taken from the top of the waist band to the lowest edge of the pant cuff down the side of the pants taken vertically. Remember to check the position that the pants are to be worn at before taking this size as overall length will be affected if inaccurate.
d. U crutch taken from the top of the waist band in front, down between the legs and up to the top of the waist band at the back.
Remember to spread the legs sufficiently to prevent the tape from snagging between the thighs and remember to take it as comfortably as you desire the pants to be in this area.
e. Thighs - finished size to be taken off another pair of pants that fit well and is to be taken around 2 inches below the U crutch joint. This is the circumference of the legs at the widest part.
f. Bottoms- is the circumference of the pants at the cuffs and can be taken off another well fitting pair of pants.

For Jackets, they are:
a. your height
b. chest circumference off the body
c. stomach circumference off the body
d. hips circumference off the body
e. shoulder width off the body
f. sleeve length
g. neck circumference off the body
h. back width taken from where the arm joins the back on one side to where the back and arm joins on the other side.

For Vests, they are:
a. front length from top of shoulder where it meets the neck to the tip of the V at the bottom
b. back length from the nape of the neck at the back to the edge of the vest/waistcoat, typically 2 to 3 inches below waistline
c. chest for men and upper bosom for women + bosom for women at the level of the nipples
d. stomach for men/narrowest part of the torso for women
e. hips for men/ stomach for women at the navel level + hips for women at the widest part
f. shoulders from one end to the other
g. neck circumference
h. armhole for women off the body and circumference of the armhole desired on the vest.
These measurements are straight forward and can easily be taken by your self using a measurements tape.

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Topic 19: Our Policies, Return Policy, Cancellation Policy

19a) I have lost my Gift Certificate, Swatch Payment Refund Coupon, Discount Coupon, Promotional Coupon!
If a certificate or swatch payment redemption coupon is lost, it is not recoverable. It is the receivers responsibility to retain and save the coupon or certificate for subsequent use at our site.
- Any certificate or redemption coupon cannot be exchanged for cash.
- A certificate or redemption coupon cannot be utilized or redeemed with an order already placed or with an existing order being worked on at that time.
- A coupon redemption can only be made on the next order or subsequent orders and not on a current order.
- No request to recover a lost coupon or gift certificate shall be entertained.

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19b) What is the return policy at RavisTailor.com?
RavisTailor.com is dedicated to attaining complete customer satisfaction. Should there be an inadvertent error made on our part, we will do all the necessary adjustments and/or replacements and reship the order to the client, free of charge. If the client has inadvertently sent us the wrong measurements, we will complete the adjustments at no charge, but return shipping and handling is the client´s responsibility. Once an order is placed, it can´t be cancelled because fabric is immediately sourced for production. In the case of a large order, we will agree to send an initial small shipment to confirm measurements and fit, but the balance of the order not yet shipped cannot be cancelled. When changes to an order are required after the order is placed, it will be at the discretion of our master tailors to determine if the changes can be accommodated given the current status of order processing and completion. We always do the best we can to incorporate changes a client wants made.

We subscribe to the refund and cancellation policies endorsed by the Association of Sewing and Design Professionals of America. The policy is “No Refunds or Returns: There are no refunds or exchanges on custom garments fabrics or other materials once they are purchased on your behalf.
For more specific answers to your questions about our return policy, please feel free to send us an email

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19c) What is the policy regarding gift certificates and discount coupon redemption?
Our policy is as follows:
- A gift certificate or discount coupon can only be redeemed during order placement. Gift certificates or discount coupons are not redeemable after an order is placed even if payment has not been submitted. The only alternative if payment has not been submitted is to delete that order and place a fresh order making sure that the certificate or coupon is redeemed before check out. A special page expressly for this purpose is provided during order placement and prior to checking out. If payment has already been submitted, the only option is to place a new order and redeem the coupon or certificate.
- Our gift certificate and discount coupon redemption process is automated and cannot be overridden via manual intervention in our system.
- If you wish to redeem multiple certificates, it is important to note that only one coupon can be redeemed in a single order. Either the rest of the coupons should be redeemed in subsequent orders or multiple smaller orders should be placed and the remaining coupons redeemed with every order.
- If a gift certificate or discount coupon has been lost or not saved, they would be considered lost and unrecoverable. No refund or charge back requests will be accepted in such cases.
- If a gift certificate or discount coupon that has been sent by email is not received, we would be happy to resend it via email. However, the recipient needs to make sure any spam block or email filter is not blocking the email containing the certificate or coupon number.
- If a discount coupon has a validity period indicated, under no circumstance will any claim to discount be entertained beyond the validity expiration date.
- A gift certificate or discount coupon cannot under any circumstances be redeemed for cash or goods.

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19d) Can I cancel an existing order?
As we have stated throughout our website, we are unable to cancel an existing order since fabrics are ordered immediately after an order is placed. An order cannot be cancelled once it has been processed and paid for. We do whatever we can to accommodate changes as long as change requests occur before it is too late in the production process to accommodate the requested changes.
There are two circumstance in which we will partially cancel an order. If an order has been processed and the measurements have not been received yet, the order can be cancelled but a 25% cancellation, restocking and administrative fee will be deducted from the subsequent credit return.
If an order is under production and is cancelled, a 50% charge to cover cloth and pattern costs will apply.
If measurements have been provided and the order has been processed, the order cannot be cancelled under any circumstances.
Cancellation: In the event you must cancel a contract, please notify us both by phone and in writing. If your deposits exceed these amounts, a refund for the difference will be issued to you within three weeks of receiving your written cancellation notice of.

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19e) Is there any guarantee of the fabric/material, construction quality and fit of the Custom Garment?
Our Guarantees:
• In order to guarantee the suitability of fabrics and materials for Custom Garment we are creating, we reserve the right to choose fabrics and materials used in the tailoring of this garment.
• We guarantee that construction techniques used will be those described in the Work Agreement.
• We guarantee that the Custom Garment will be constructed and will fit according to the Quality Standards of the Professional Association of Custom Clothiers (PACC). Will are committed to making adjustments as needed to ensure proper fit.

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19f) If a charge back or credit has been issued to my credit card, why do I not see it in my Card Statement?
Charge backs to credit cards sometimes encounter an administrative period that can extend to 4 working days. Additionally, it can take up to two billing cycles before the funds show up in your credit card statement as international transactions like this cross multiple banking systems.

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